Mother's
3.5 out of 5 stars
12227 W. Linebaugh Ave., Tampa. Appetizers: $4.50-$11; entrees: $16-$28; desserts: $8; wines by the glass: $5-$25. 813-814-1533; mothersfl.com.
Now that we're back on standard time and temps are dipping below 70 degrees (Florida's big chill threshold), I'm happy to report that Mother's, a new Westchase restaurant, has a series of high-top tables on their front patio that feature live flames.
There's something soothing, yet primal, about dancing fire. It may harken back to our Neanderthal ancestors, or perhaps just memories of making s'mores around the campfire, but it immediately has me in a good mood — never mind that the view is a shopping center parking lot.
The good news is that there are also some swell things to eat. The braised pork belly sticky buns feature a sweet-spicy house sauce, pickled carrots and onions, plus some microgreens and a sprinkling of black and white sesame seeds. A big slab of lush pork makes sure it doesn't get lost in the condiments, and the steamed bun is light and fluffy. Each element works.
Sadly, that's not true of the citrus duck flatbread. The base is so thin that it can't stay crisp, which is its main function, as it doesn't really add much flavor. The duck confit, which should be the star, seems like an afterthought. It's overwhelmed by goat cheese, thin asian pear slices, ponzu reduction and, particularly, mandarin orange segments that are the leading textural and flavor takeaway. There's no focus.
The Italian sausage soup du jour has plenty of flavor, with chunks of meat and a balanced hit of spice in the broth. One of my tablemates finds it too salty, but it's fine by me. Salt is the most important savory flavor booster, and no one is neutral about it. Most chefs push the salt looking for that perfect edge without going over — for it's there that maximum flavor lies. But we all have different tolerances. That's why balance is important, and a touch of acidity, in this case tomato, makes for a satisfying dish.
Most of the entrees are served in giant white bowls. Grilled, hand-cut lollipop lamb chops are juicy and tender under a coat of mint-pistachio pesto. They sit on a mound of garlic-chive mashed potatoes and a few asparagus, tip-side-down with stalks that run up the side. This one's good, but not as distinctive as what's to follow.
The bowl of NOLA-style shrimp and grits has a tasty sauce with big chunks of spicy andouille sausage, as well as roasted red peppers and onion. The white Cheddar grits are very soft and creamy; take note if you prefer a firmer base. The shrimp are just right — plump and juicy, although true New Orleans-style shrimp comes head-on. That's rare here, however, because Tampa Bay seems averse to food that stares back at you, despite the authentic taste it provides. But the dish is full of flavor.
The best and most complex dish of the night is the absolutely wonderful prosciutto-wrapped scallops. The prosciutto is subtler than American bacon, so it doesn't overpower the tender scallops, and the creamy crab rosé sauce is luscious. The key to the plate, however, is pairing it with a shaved citrus fennel salad all in the same bowl. The bright acidity and anise-tinged fennel provides flavor and textural contrast, elevating the dish into the stratosphere.
We can't pass up the chance to try the chipotle Gouda mac and cheese. It's made with al dente bow tie pasta in a creamy sauce with distinct heat on the finish. As the table samples the dish, we're all in agreement that we're not sure we'd know that Gouda was involved, but we end up fans, which isn't true of the roasted Brussels sprouts with pancetta. While the tiny sprouts are halved and roasted till there's some caramelization and the bits of meat are crisp, the finished result falls flat. There's a bitter edge that I can't identify, yet something's missing to make these veggies sing.
I've been running into a lot of bread pudding as of late, ranging from gelatinous goo to chef Bonnie Breaux of Roux's ethereal contribution to the recent James Beard Foundation's Sunday Supper.
The Mother's variation, a chocolate chip bread pudding with vanilla ice cream and a Jameson whiskey sauce, is a misfire. Bread pudding is designed to take old, stale baguettes and salvage them by adding egg custard. The bits of bread retain their shape, but the sweet creamy custard makes the pieces hold together as a vehicle for a decadent whiskey sauce. This version's made from what appears to be a whole pieces of bread with a cornicione edge like a pizza, or maybe focaccia. It's far too soft to be appealing. The fact that the dessert sits on a thin layer of chocolate chips doesn't matter — the core element is ill-conceived.
The four-layer chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream, which isn't particularly moist or dense, is straightforward. It won't knock your socks off, but it does the job.
Mother's is a welcome addition to Tampa's Westchase area and, quibbles aside, has much to offer. There's a small but carefully chosen list of wines, creative cocktails and a range of beer for all tastes, including 25-plus on draft. Much of the menu is also available for takeout. And then, of course, there are those hypnotizing flames.
Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.
This article appears in Nov 24 – Dec 1, 2016.