Nitally's Thai-Mex Cuisine
3.5 stars
2462 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, 727-321-THAI or thaifoodtogo.net
(photos by jamesostrand.com)
I don't want to understate this: Nitally's is home to one of the most ambitious advancements in portable culinary technology I have seen in decades. From this wee restaurant in St. Pete's Grand Central district comes the simple genius of the Thai burrito.
I know what you're thinking: "I've had Thai burritos before, Brian!" Naw, you haven't, unless you've eaten at Nitally's. Other restaurants may throw a little cilantro or Sri Racha in a beef or chicken wrap and call it Thai, but that's merely unimaginative marketing hoohaw and fundamental small-mindedness that taints the truly great work being done at Nitally's. Why is their version so damn tasty, you ask? It's complicated, but bear with me.
This article appears in Jan 20-26, 2010.