“And the secret garden bloomed and bloomed and every morning revealed new miracles.” Frances Hodgson Burnett’s Secret Garden wasn’t referencing Pelagia Trattoria’s hidden rooftop rows of vertical planters at the Renaissance Tampa International Plaza, but above the hotel’s banquet hall there are (seasonally) lush squash blossoms, cherry peppers, tomatoes and herbs, herbs, herbs. Chef Brett Austin Gardiner has a playground that is any chef’s dream, and it shows in his Mediterranean-inflected menu.
But what you first notice as you enter Pelagia Trattoria is glass. The tables are resplendent with cobalt blue stemware and a rainbow of “bright, jewel-toned, blown-glass” custom-ironwork chandeliers line the length of the room. As your eyes scan the open kitchen, you also can’t help but be drawn to the flame-colored hand-glazed tiles that frame the wood-fired pizza oven. It’s a chic and inviting room.
As we take our seats, an enthusiastic server brings kalamata olive spread pumped up by sun-dried tomatoes and lemon zest. It marries well with the accompanying rosemary herb bread with its chewy crust.
Even though we are sorely tempted by the create-your-own cured meat and cheese board, we decide to focus on the “signature bites” and some half portions of delectable pasta. We are not disappointed. The Spanish chorizo-stuffed crunchy olives are delightful tidbits. The fattiness of the sausage balances the astringency of the green olives, which are crumb-coated, deep-fried and could become addictive. The bite-sized octopus chunks marinated with garlic and mint hold up well to a spicy carrot-tomato purée, and are a reminder of the Mediterranean’s prodigious bounty.
As the bites disappear and pasta arrives there are smiles all around. Sharing half portions to start the meal is an inspired decision. In fact, on my next visit I want to try them all. The menu changes seasonally, but every single choice is enticing. Ultimately, we skip over some of the more adventurous combinations to test the mettle of some traditional Italian stalwarts.
Wide hand-cut pappardelle noodles are picture perfect, with nice resistance to the tooth and coated with luscious traditional Bolognese ragù that pays equal homage to meatiness and tomato-driven acidity. You can see why this popular, long-simmered sauce has endured. It is classic. Potato gnocchi are also a staple, and the delicious combo of an artisan sausage troika with tomato-basil butter proves to be a delicious match. Chef Gardiner’s gnocchi are dense and flavorful, but my personal preference is for a slightly lighter texture and more caramelization in the pan prior to saucing. While this is totally a matter of personal taste, I miss the added note that a touch of brown brings to the flavor profile. Nonetheless (note to self and other food cognoscenti), we should eat more gnocchi.
The Margherita pizza looks tempting, with chunks of oven-dried tomato, plenty of fresh mozzarella and a chiffonade of basil (presumably from the secret roof garden). Its thin crust remains crisp and shows a light, welcome char on its underbelly from the blistering hot oven, but the edges are not brown, and the dough lacks tang. The best Neapolitan pizza puts up a fight as your teeth tear into the crust; Pelagia’s falls just short.
The fennel-crusted wild salmon is sensational. The perfect pink filet dusted with fennel pollen sits atop beautiful Israeli pearl-like couscous loaded with garden-fresh veggies. A touch of basil butter adds just the right herbal hint to make the dish soar.
For my taste, the Maine lobster risotto has a few too many of the fresh garden herbs, and the rice is pushing the boundary toward gumminess. While the lobster chunks are flecked throughout, and there is a huge, delicious claw on top, I wish the rice had retained a bit more individuality. Again, a personal preference; my dining companion is quite happy, but for me, less (herbs, cooking time) with risotto is more. I swoon when the rice is creamy but preserves the identity of each grain.
The dessert choices are alluring. The sampler of fresh gelato flavors almost owns my heart, but I can’t resist the witty coffee and cigar. A fat chocolate tuille stogie, filled to overflowing with light Bailey’s mousse, sits on an espresso panna cotta “ashtray” that completes the clever presentation. The panna cotta, while nicely reflecting the espresso infusion, is too gelatinous. Close, but no cigar.
However, the limoncello crème brûlée with candied lemon chips is ethereal. I’ve been avoiding crème brûlée lately because most desserts this ubiquitous (that also means you, key lime pie and chocolate lava cake) are invariably disappointing. Pelagia nails it with a crunchy crust yielding to tangy custard that showcases the best of the infamous Italian liqueur. A lemon chip garnish kicks it up a notch.
My favorite is the light white chocolate cheesecake laced with with pears lightly poached in Frangelico hazelnut liqueur and accompanied by dark, seductive, syrupy amarena cherries. The textural juxtaposition is lip-smackingly good. And the subtle flavor combo makes for a stellar conclusion to the night.
Quibbles aside, Pelagia deserves your attention. When you’re near International Plaza, skip The Capital Grille, Ocean Prime and the Cheesecake Factory and head over to Pelegia Trattoria. You won’t be sorry.
This article appears in Aug 28 – Sep 3, 2014.