Deccan Spice
3.5 out of 5 stars
2325 Ulmerton Road #28, Clearwater. Appetizers: $3.50-$16.50; entrees $10.50-$24: desserts: $4-$6.50; beer and wine: $3-$8. 727-623-4009; deccanspice.com.
As you turn off Ulmerton Road onto Egret Boulevard, you’ve got to wind through the Shell station and pass the Jimmy John’s to discover Deccan Spice inside what was once a nightclub at one time or another.
The Clearwater newcomer’s all upscale white tablecloths and doesn’t instantly bring the Indian subcontinent to mind. But Deccan Spice promises “authentic Indian food from the land of Maharaja” and delivers, even if the service is a bit slapdash. The secret is a commitment to fresh ingredients and handpicking chefs who are “nurtured just like an Indian farmer diligently would nurture the grains of exotic basmati rice.” It’s a comfortable image and, I must say, not exactly what you expect from a restaurant chain with a huge menu.
The meal begins with a basket of warm, complimentary papadum. It’s served with a silver tray and two small silver pots with shiny demitasse spoons. Inside these elegant vessels are two smooth chutneys: sweet tamarind and lightly spiced mint. The papadum are fairly bland, without spice or seeds — a neutral canvas for the condiments. I miss the more assertive papadum that bring hints of cumin, lentils or chickpeas to the mix of flavors. Likewise, the chutneys are reserved in texture and spice. They’re certainly pleasant, yet I long for extra punch.
I can never go to an Indian restaurant without ordering samosas. They were my introduction to food from South Asia. An old friend from Delhi, who was an intense international lawyer, morphed into a pussycat as she lovingly produced this ultimate comfort food from her homeland. I’ll never forget my first bite, my teeth breaking through the warm, crisp, flaky dough to encounter soft, minced potato chunks and green peas perfectly spiced with coriander, cumin and garam masala. I wanted more. It’s one of those moments that I’m sure I’ve romanticized over the years, but the sense memory is firmly etched as a touchstone each time I encounter a samosa.
I’m quite happy to report that Deccan’s samosas are spot on, if a tad greasy. Another appetizer, the flavor-filled onion bhajji (India’s answer to onion rings) — sliced and dipped in chickpea, instead of beer batter — indicate the deep-fryer temperature is a bit low. This is only a minor quibble, as my table wolfs down both quickly. They’re close to perfection, so I can’t help but notice.
Our first entree is the fragrant, stunning tandoori lobster. Sizzling sliced onions and julienned green peppers form a bed for two split lobster tails. Steam rises from the deep red-orange shell, carrying the smell of lobster meat that’s equally bright from the tandoori spice wafting to our happy noses. It’s simply luscious.
All the curries are offered mild, medium, hot or Indian hot. My table is full of spice wimps of Western heritage, so we only go for medium. While I have a family member with an asbestos mouth, I find that too much heat dulls the complexity of the dishes. Deccan does accommodate those of you who don’t mind the devil in your mouth, though.
Each of the curries we sample is full of flavor, well-balanced and attractively served, plus they come with a huge bowl of rice. The top of each logo-stamped bowl is angled, which makes it easy to scoop rice onto your plate before ladling a curry of choice on top. The curries themselves are in smart, round silver bowls that sport a handle, and the servings are huge. We eat enthusiastically and still have plenty left over. A couple can easily share, but it’s much more fun to taste different sauces or proteins.
Chicken korma is full of juicy cubes of meat in a creamy sauce consisting of almonds and cashews. The dish’s medium spice has a kick that won’t overwhelm the spice-averse; this is the sweet spot for most diners. Folks who want to sweat can take it up a notch or two.
Butter chicken nails the authentic Punjabi dish of tandoori prepared chicken, softly simmered in a smooth, slightly sweet tomato-based gravy. It’s a delightful contrast to the korma.
Lamb tikka masala also features tender chunks of meat with the addition of sautéed bell peppers, onions, ginger and garlic in creamy tomato sauce. I have a ball dipping pieces of the huge buttered naan into each of the sauces for comparison.
If you haven’t had the pleasure of eating good naan, don’t miss the unleavened soft flatbread baked in a tandoor. It’s slapped against the side of the 900-degree cylindrical clay oven, where it quickly bubbles and takes on an alluring (and delicious) char. I like it brushed with ghee (clarified butter), but there are options to add garlic or spice. One big naan comfortably serves two. However, always order an extra — just in case.
Indian desserts are an acquired taste for Western palates. Gulab jamun is a popular dessert made with balls of sweet dough served warm in a honey syrup. These are a little more accessible than the gajar ka kalwa, a north Indian sweet made with finely grated caramelized carrots, sugar and milk and flavored with cardamom. The texture is coarse, rather than silky, and the sweet cardamom is delightful if you’ve got an open mind.
The wine choices are basic and, sadly, Deccan doesn’t offer any riesling or gewürztraminer, the perfect matches for spice. Nevertheless, we exit happily toting tomorrow’s lunch.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
