Wooden Ladle
3.5 out of 5 stars
3689 Tampa Road #305, Oldsmar. Appetizers: $4-$6; entrees: $9-$12; desserts: $2.50-$3; drinks: $1.75-$5. 813-814-2448; woodenladle.com.
I remember when Asian food in America was limited to Chinese takeout and Japanese steakhouses. Egg roll, anyone? How about some moo goo gai pan? Luckily, the landscape has grown to cover culinary traditions across Asia. Plus, there’s been a real push not to Americanize these dishes, but instead try to reflect authenticity.
And the quality of the food representing this gastronomic geography is first-rate. There’s wonderful Japanese ramen, delicious Vietnamese phở and a range of Hawaiian poké. In the last two years alone, I’ve been wowed by restaurants across Tampa Bay producing superb examples of each of these Asian-inflected stalwarts.
Still, that didn’t prepare me for Oldsmar’s Wooden Ladle, which is a mashup of these yummy dishes collected under one roof. Not only that, it’s all wrapped up in a high-tech bow. I haven’t been to Tokyo, but as you enter, you’re confronted by a row of iPads, each with a place to swipe your credit card. To the left and right, the walls are papered — floor to ceiling — with black-and-white anime cartoon characters. Looks like Nippon to me.
You approach the tablet of your choice, and all the menu options are pictured on the touch screen. As you select what you fancy from the menu, images appear on the screen — just to be sure. Then, each dish jumps to a list-view on the right side of the screen with your running total. When you press “phở,” you’re given a choice of the seven free garnishes, or, in my case, you just select “everything.” If you have any questions or you’re generationally tech-challenged, a smiling human is there to guide you through.
This is on the cutting-edge of Asian fast-casual.
Opened in May, the new restaurant offers a series of small plates, including three different spring rolls, mini egg rolls and some karaage chicken bites. We settle on an edamame dish — which, like everything else at Wooden Ladle, is so good we can only describe it with a haiku:
Green edamame / Sprinkled with large-flake sea salt / Snow on rolling hills
The bowl is great to share, as are a duo of fresh spring rolls:
Shrimp with crisp veggies / In a rice kimono wrap / Swim in peanut sauce
The dipping sauce has a hoisin base with distinct sweetness. It matches well because there’s not too much cilantro and the julienned veggies are mostly there for texture.
For our entrees, we select one each from the restaurant’s poké, phở and ramen triad. There are eight delicious-sounding poké offerings. We know fish is lush, but decide to see what they can deliver with soy protein:
Lightly fried tofu / Spicy chili garlic bowl / Cool cucumber rice
The tofu is perfectly crisp, with a kick that’s balanced by the crunch of red cabbage, chopped lettuce and edamame. It’s a nice way to go if cubes of tuna, salmon or chicken don’t float your boat.
Our Vietnamese choice is the beef combo phở:
Aromatic broth / Thin sliced beef, brisket, meatballs / Garnishes add pop
Even if the beef is a bit chewy, these rice noodles are tender. The dish is full of taste, and if you want even more, bean sprouts, cilantro, sliced red onions, scallions, Thai basil and jalapeño slices may be added at your pleasure. Just don’t skip the lime wedge — the acidity is essential.
Since we chose meat for the phở, we decide to go the veggie ramen track:
Creamy veggie stock / Egg noodle poetry bowl / Bamboo shoots the moon
The broth isn’t as complex as some in town, but with sautéed tofu, earthy shiitakes, scallions, corn and sesame, alongside toasted seaweed and a drizzle of black garlic oil, there’s plenty to appreciate.
Desserts from Asia don’t embrace the decadent butter-and-egg traditions that dominate in Europe. Wooden Ladle has chosen wisely with just two contrasting choices. Cold mochi, a pounded sticky rice confection that wraps ice cream balls, or hot, fresh doughnuts. Mochi’s chewy rice-flour casing is an acquired taste. It’s a bit like edible, neutral-flavored chewing gum.
Mochi ice cream treat / Enrobed in sweet rice blanket / Plum wine and green tea
Or…
Deep-fried dough shimmers / Shaken with sweet white sugar / Warm, moist and oh, my
The restaurant carries soda and hot green or jasmine tea, as well as sweet iced tea, a delightful Woodchuck red apple hard cider or house wine for $5. We choose riesling because it’s a great balance for spicy food. Wooden Ladle is fresh, quick, healthy, and affordable. And its motto is, indeed, accurate. The waitstaff does their eager best to be sure that you “End your meal with a smile.”
And we do.
Touch-screen order fun / Ramen, phở and poké dream / Critic marked by joy
Editor's Note: The haikus above are inspired by our restaurant critic's poet friend, who joined him for this tasting. Claridge shared his draft and got several in return, including this classic:
Dine with food critic / Eat till our stomachs are full / Everything is free
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
