The Hangar Restaurant and Flight Lounge

3 stars

541 First St. SE, St. Petersburg, 727-823-7767 or thehangarstpete.com

The new Hangar Restaurant and Flight Lounge at downtown St. Petersburg’s Albert Whitted Airport is an interesting choice for Steve Westphal’s third bayfront eatery. His Parkshore Grill blazed a trail for new concepts on Beach Boulevard, and 400 Beach — which moved from steakhouse to fancy fish shack — seemed to pack them in during the months after opening.

The Hangar, however, steps back from the upscale vibe at his previous two spots and the easily accessible setting of the Beach entertainment district. Not that Whitted isn’t a scenic spot, to be sure. The terminal at the small, private airport has the feel of an exclusive jetway, free from long lines, deadened airline employees and the hassle of baggage claim. Walk up the stairs to the restaurant and you’re treated to panoramic views of criss-crossed runways, with the new Dalí Museum building rising off to the north.

Sit at the delicate tables and chairs arrayed around the stairwell or the high-top tables around the bar, however, and the airport vibe starts to seep in. Or rather, the feel of a hotel restaurant off to the side of the lobby and check-in desk.