Paul’s Landing
4 out of 5 stars
The Vinoy Renaissance St. Petersburg Resort & Golf Club, 501 Fifth Ave. NE, St. Petersburg. Appetizers: $5-$18; entrees: $15-$36; desserts: $6-$9; beer, cocktails & wine: $6-$16. 727-824-8007; marriott.com.
The Vinoy is such an iconic presence on the downtown St. Pete waterfront that it’s surprising it’s taken almost 100 years to open an elevated restaurant to take advantage of the rare views. Paul’s Landing (named after William Paul, who built a log smokehouse on the site, among other things, in 1854) has been done with great care to appear fully integrated into the historic facade. However, it’s a circuitous walk through the beautiful hotel; save the outside entrance down the block for your exit.
Our greeter seems preoccupied, like we’re interrupting with our reservation. My head switches into condescension mode. I smile, but my interior monologue says: “Darlin’ — may I call you darlin’? Sorry to disturb you.” We’re shown to a table with backless stools 5 feet from the desk. OK for a drink, not for a long dinner. We ask for something outside with a view and end up most happy.
The vista over the marina is splendid, and we begin with a delightful series of craft cocktails. The menu celebrates seafood, citrus and smoke. The shrimp toast appetizer with avocado and pickled veggies is an essential choice. It takes your palate on a dance worthy of Fred and Ginger. Great dishes tease your eyes and then surprise your taste buds. This is a master class in synchronicity of ingredients — each thoughtfully chosen, perfectly prepared and carefully balanced. The combo of textures and flavors is exhilarating.
Composed of four deep red bricks instead of sushi-esque slices, the gently seared tuna is also scrumptious. And the pile of yummy beer-brined smoked wings have a shiny, finger-licking-good citrus-chili glaze that’s well-balanced with just a touch of heat. Simply superb.
The mounded drop biscuits display great technique as well. They are uncomplicated, yet so often go wrong. These are light with a moist crumb that barely needs the accompanying smoky orange butter, though why would you resist? On to the entrees.
There’s something very Santorini about a grilled whole branzino being placed before you. It doesn’t even require a dramatic flourish from our server, because the fish itself is a scene stealer of Lady Gaga proportions. An intact head and tail screams fresh, and the slight char adds a touch of smokiness. If you’re bone averse, a well-drilled server expertly produces two tender fillets of mild white fish that charms hidden nuances from a glass of Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc. The wine’s bright citrus is delightful with unadulterated fish enlivened by a spritz of fresh lemon.
Seafood roast is a fresh board of Poseidon’s greatest hits. A grilled lobster tail proudly rests on its shell, a shrimp trio in their shells drip of the sea when you coax them out and onto your tongue, two “oysters lobsterfeller” have a touch of bacon for kicks, and two ample chunks of succulent grilled fish are ready to take a bath in drawn butter. I’m in hog(fish) heaven.
Smokehouse brisket is almost too much of a good thing. There’s plenty of delicious, crispy end bark, and the thick surface glaze walks the knife’s edge of sweet and spicy. It’s a huge pile of beef sure to please any fan of Texas-style barbecue, plus it comes with more drop biscuits.
The edamame quinoa burger is a terrific veggie option. Too often patties that are meant to substitute for meat are either tasteless, dry or mushy. This one is surprisingly good, including the toasted brioche bun with lemon-chile aioli, crisp lettuce and ripe tomato.
Our sides include an a la carte order of hush puppies, which remind you of why these Southern treats deserve to be on this menu. The golf ball-size orbs are seductively golden brown, with a jagged surface like a space rock. They deliver wonderful cornmeal goodness without a touch of greasiness, demonstrating the kitchen has plenty of hot, fresh oil. Although the tangy chipotle-lemon sauce is there for your dipping pleasure, it really isn’t even needed. The split Brussels sprouts are straightforward, but perfectly caramelized while retaining enough resistance to deliver the perfect mouthful.
The house-made desserts are truly lovely. You know there are pros in charge. The seasonally inspired cupcake sampler is a trio of superbly conceived and executed mini-sweets baked in free-form parchment instead of machine-trimmed cupcake forms. The folded paper extends upward toward the sky in jagged peaks. It reminds me of a modern haute couture collar that might show up on a Fashion Week runway. The cakes — luscious chocolate pecan, fresh and fruity strawberry, and bracing lemon meringue — are moist, and each flavor pops.
Key lime pie follows the popular trend of rethinking dessert service as individual portions. Instead of a traditional wedge, there’s a circular container that looks like the love child of a Mason jar and a petri dish. The bottom is lined with graham crackers and topped with creamy lime, as well as dots of meringue, a chiffonade of basil and fresh raspberries. My tasters are less enthusiastic than I am. While I embrace the gooey tart lime cream, it’s a more gelatinous experience than normal. For me, it’s about the edge of citrus, so I’m in, but my posse passes on the texture.
All told, Paul’s Landing is new gem both for food and cocktails — not to mention a killer view.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at [email protected].
