Rocco's Tacos & Tequila Bar
3.5 out of 5 stars
2223 N. Westshore Blvd., Tampa. Appetizers: $4.50-$16; entrees: $14-$28; desserts: $8-$8.50; beer, cocktails & wine: $5-$16; tequila: $6-$100+. 813-800-8226, roccostacos.com.
Mexican food across Tampa Bay is exceptionally popular. There’s a continuum from Taco Bell to a plethora of fast-casual spots to traditional Dunedin stalwart Casa Tina and, finally, to the elevated St. Petersburg cuisine of Red Mesa. In Tampa, Hyde Park Village’s bartaco takes the humble, familiar handheld and spins it into flavor combinations heretofore unknown. And now, the latest entry into the rich culinary heritage is Rocco’s Tacos & Tequila Bar at International Plaza.
While the name “Rocco” doesn’t exactly bring to mind images of Frida Kahlo, exuberant mariachi or stereotypical sombreros, the food is fresh, authentic, well-balanced and full of those flavor combos you’ve come to know and love. You’ll be especially pleased if you’ve graduated from pounding cheap tequila blanco Jell-O shots to an appreciation of barrel-aged extra añejos. The South Florida-based restaurant chain carries more than 300 varieties of the liquor for you to explore on the way to your tequila Ph.D. You know your mother will be proud.
Also not to be missed is a trip to the restrooms, where someone has a great sense of humor. Each stall or urinal has an ornate gold-framed screen hanging on Día de Muertos skull wallpaper playing a continuous loop of the silly 1986 Western spoof, Three Amigos.
The Rocco’s menu covers the usual Mexican fare, but it focuses on making everything in-house — and that pays off. The sour mix for the margaritas, the flour tortillas and the tableside guacamole are all superb. I‘m somewhat leery as the cart with the molcajete approaches our table. The last time I ordered guac made tableside elsewhere, the chef went through all the motions, yet the result was bland. Here, the restaurant gets it exactly right. While the avocado is seductively creamy, it bursts with flavor from a balance of red onion, tomato, lime, salt, cilantro and jalapeño. The huge pile of warm, crisp house-made corn chips for dipping makes this a perfect way to start our meal.
We’re already enjoying delicious fruity red sangria with a Grand Marnier upgrade, a splendid frozen house margarita with salt, and a watermelon margarita with agave nectar on the rocks rimmed with sugar just for kicks. Although it’s mid-week, the dining room is buzzing with happy diners and drinkers. A friend I spoke to experienced less-than-positive, glacial service, but our server is superbly attentive and well-versed on the small details of the extensive menu.
Sweet plantains are delightful. They’re diagonally cut, fried till the sugars are beautifully caramelized, and topped with squiggles of crema and crumbled queso. The elotes, grilled street corn, comes on a paper-lined metal tray as a trio of split cobs on skewers. Their slightly charred kernels are slathered in chipotle mayo and rolled in cotija cheese, spices and minced cilantro. After having memories of bland corn at another Mexican joint, this is a second welcome surprise.
Our entrees also deliver. First, of course, the eponymous handheld. The restaurant offers a hard corn shell, but we choose the flour tortillas. Every protein is served with the same standard taco sauce, pico de gallo, cilantro, pickled red onions and cotija. We sample our way through slow-roasted chicken in adobo, spicy chorizo sausage, shrimp, carne asada marinaded beef and slow-roasted pork. Each is classically presented, so choose your favorite and chow down.
Rocco’s also features some inventive three-taco platters that take an unconventional tack. For example, there’s “Korean” with hoisin beef and kimchi, or “Brooklyn” with pork four ways. I’m tempted, but prefer to taste broadly this time out.
The bistec con avocado fries showcases a flavorful, marinated wood-grilled steak with chimichurri. It seems to be skirt steak, which is about flavor rather than texture, yet it’s well-seasoned and a perfect medium rare. A friend’s version, however, is too cool. Never hesitate to let the kitchen know if there’s a misstep. Line cooks need to be consistent, and you’re doing important work for fellow diners to help a kitchen develop that trait. Believe me, any restaurant wants guests to leave happy ’cause word of mouth is the best advertising. The luscious batter-dipped avocado fries accompanying this dish are sprinkled with cotija, and there’s a punchy chipotle roasted garlic aioli for dipping. It’s yummy.
Our enchiladas rojas are filled with juicy pulled pork and smoky guajilla chili sauce, then baked with chihuahua cheese (think Mexican Cheddar). The refried beans, fluffy yellow rice and tangy crema complete a lovely plate. Nothing new or different here, just satisfying.
The Mexican sweets are simply the best I’ve had in town. A split, circular churro sandwiches your choice of ice cream. We opt for cinnamon, and I can’t imagine another flavor improving the dessert, which disappears as though I were eating with ravenous wolves. The très leches cake is also superb, with freshly sliced bananas and strawberries floating in a milky sauce. The whole thing is finished with luscious piped meringue that’s been perfectly torched. It’s simply delightful.
We leave Rocco’s glad we came and eager to return. My companions may be enamored of the guacamole, but the cinnamon ice cream will fill my dreams.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
