Revenge Review: Richman v. Bourdain

Share on Nextdoor

During the Anthony Bourdain and enviable food writer Michael Ruhlman debuted the first annual Golden Clog Awards. Some of the awards — like "best achievement in offal" or "chef's chef award" — were designed to recognize the duo's favorite guys in the industry. But nobody cared because the other awards were juicy, inside-baseball slams of the biggest names in food.

One of the victims was GQ Food Critic Alan Richman, who won the coveted Douchebag Award "for the best example of twisted, repressed, or compromised "I'd rather be making lemon bundt cake with My Cat, Mr. Mufflesworth" journalist who actually HATES food and hates the people who make food even more."

As if to prove the point, Richman penned a revenge review of Bourdain's restaurant Les Halles. He hated it — perhaps rightly, most folks recognize that Les Halles is nothing to get excited about — and spent an inordinate number of words on Bourdain's "Chef-At-Large" status at the restaurant. Bourdain doesn't make any bones about the fact that he rarely works a line anymore (just check out the episode where he sweats through a night in the kitchen at Les halles with Eric Ripert), but Richman was gunning for Bourdain, no matter what. The thing is, Bourdain has a sense of humor about his distance from the kitchen and is largely unfazed by the attack. He told Grub Street: "It was like being mauled by Gumby. Afterwards, you’re not sure it even happened.”

Maybe Richman's lobbying for back-to-back Douchebag awards. Way to hog the glory, dude.

Scroll to read more Restaurant Reviews articles

Newsletters

Join Creative Loafing Tampa Bay Newsletters

Subscribe now to get the latest news delivered right to your inbox.