To the right is Mandarin Hide’s gorgeous bar, long and sleek, backed by a crowded wall checkerboarded by the inevitable shelves of premium bottles, chalked lists of available spirits, cabinets of glassware, and a taxidermied bison bust jutting from the raw brick behind it.
It all comes together into an experience that’s just the thing for mixology that references the past but flirts with innovation.
Like Tito’s Pig, one of the small list of signature cocktails, which transforms a sweet and simple vodka drink into a serious cocktail thanks to the addition of a bright burst of jalapeno heat tempered by cool cucumber. Bulleit Bourbon comes mixed with homemade ginger ale loaded with tingling vegetal spice, and the French 75 brings England and France together by layering citrusy gin with a generous slug of sparkling wine.
Mandarin Hide also has a very brief but evocative selection of wines by the glass, mostly focused on American vintners, and a list of beers that’s loaded with better mass-market brands and the occasional craft brew.
Go on a Wednesday and the place is lit with dozens of candles, arranged in groupings on the bar, tucked behind bottles, and artfully arranged on every available flat space, some scented to fill the air with a whiff of vanilla and sweet spice. Some nights also feature small bands up by the towering front windows, tending toward atmospheric jazz that heightens Mandarin’s already cool vibe.
Down the block and around the corner, Ruby’s Elixir has a much different vibe. The space is more wide than deep, its tables seeming to spill out onto the sidewalk through three sets of wide-flung double doors, all of it lit with a red glow from inside the place. Step through one of the French doors and it’s a maze to work through to get to the bar, a sturdy and weathered place to stool up for a drink if you don’t want to brave the sea of padded club chairs around the tables.
Here, everything is focused on the small stage in one back corner, the low ceiling funneling attention toward that brightly lit spot. Ruby’s features live jazz and blues five nights a week, music that becomes the point of the lounge instead of just another decorative element. Get the band playing, and Ruby’s becomes a raucous, vibrant spot that pulls people in from the sidewalks to join the crowd.
Cocktails here are more old-fashioned and less fussy, largely geared toward classic standards backed up by a very good selection of premium liquors. There’s also a better selection of craft brews on tap than at Mandarin Hide, perhaps because the cocktails are more musical accompaniment than the reason for the whole endeavor and therefore don’t care about internal competition.
There’s nothing wrong with wanting to be part of Mandarin Hide’s scene — after all, the blend of luxe and downscale elements makes it comfortable enough for anyone to adopt. And Ruby’s isn’t just for the foot-stomping hoi polloi — the music is too good and the cocktails are too fine for that.
Photo: James Ostrand.
