The fact that Restaurant BT has one of the most innovative and provocative cocktail lists in town may actually be hurting the place. Walk in and order the Cucumber Aloe, or the Dirty Dirty, and you'll need something to nosh on. Not just because of the hefty alcoholic toll they'll take on your senses, but because you need something to temper the powerful flavors. Ever use "pungent" to describe a martini?
I wouldn't have it any other way, actually, if my only other choice is an array of the same raspberry and coffee 'tinis at the other 99 percent of Bay area restaurants. (Simmer down Ocean Prime, I'm not talking about you.) But with intensity and daring comes a need for equally intense and powerful food. That, however, is not Restaurant BT's strong point.
This article appears in May 6-12, 2009.