Before the arrest on Nov. 28 of alleged serial killer Howell Emmanuel Donaldson III, a string of four murders shut down streets in Seminole Heights. National news outlets like the Washington Post printed headlines about the paralyzed Tampa neighborhood. Local officials urged residents to stay indoors if possible and not walk alone outside, especially at night. The killings shook the region and led Tampa Mayor Bob Buckhorn to challenge law enforcement: “Bring his head to me, all right?”
Prior to the crime spree that began in early October, the big story in Seminole Heights had been its rapidly expanding restaurant scene. In the aftermath, CL wondered how these businesses were faring now.
Responses to our inquiries were mixed. A few owners said they were affected but recovering, thanks to supportive neighbors. And at least one establishment refused to speak on the record, complaining that the biggest reason for any loss of business wasn't the shootings themselves, but the nonstop hype of the media drawing attention to them.
At Ella’s Americana Folk Art Cafe, a staple in the area for almost a decade, there was fallout from both the shootings and Hurricane Irma. According to co-owner Melissa Deming, the restaurant had a rough few months in October through November because of the serial killer fears, but there was a significant decrease in business in the days leading up to and the week following Irma in September, too.
She was quick to add, however, that residents kept Ella’s alive when outsiders were staying away.
In the weeks since the arrest, Deming said she’s seen business rebound to levels equal to — or better than — before. She predicts Seminole Heights will keep growing as a hotspot for great grub.
Michelle Baker, co-owner of The Refinery and Fodder & Shine, expressed similar sentiments. Alongside her cheffy husband Greg, a multi-year James Beard Award semifinalist, Michelle has been a part of the Seminole Heights food scene since their cutting-edge Refinery opened in 2010.
“During [the crime spree], it was a bleak ghost town. Most businesses operating during nighttime hours saw a dramatic downturn. People were genuinely terrified of coming to SH. Residents tried to come out and support the local businesses as much as they could. Truly wonderful people,” she told CL in a message.
Impacts from Irma, a slow summer and increasing competition were also felt, but her restaurants have bounced back.
“Three days after the killer was caught, it was a Friday night,” Michelle recalled. “We were slammed at both The Refinery and Fodder & Shine. It was like a floodgate of people opened.”
This reporter has visited a new kid on the block, Mortar & Pestle, several times. The restaurant, whose indie pharmacy component hasn’t opened yet, launched in August with high-concept dishes like sous-vide pork belly and five-spice crispy duck breast. The kitchen was led at that time by executive chef Brett Wright.
However, on my most recent visit in December, the lineup had been modified considerably; lower price point items like bowls, burgers, sausages and flatbreads were now being featured. According to my server, the kitchen staff changed as well. He said a dip in business when fearful diners stayed away from the area had prompted the updates.
Indeed, a look at the restaurant’s Facebook page shows inklings of a menu change in October, plus no food service and a cancellation of reservations for several days in November. On Nov. 8, a pop-up menu called the “Walk-Out Cook-Out” was offered, and on Nov. 22, the restaurant welcomed new chef JD Patterson. Management did not return CL’s repeated requests for comment about whether or not the changes were caused by the business downturn in the wake of the killings.
From the chef and co-owner of Rooster & the Till’s perspective, the shootings were tough all-around. Ferrell Alvarez said he doesn’t like talking about the monetary aspect — the loss of life was much more significant to the community. However, he conceded that conditions were difficult and expressed gratitude to guests from the Heights, as well as Ybor City, who patronized his restaurant anyway.
Alvarez saw significant impact during the hurricane, too; although the popular restaurant didn’t lose power, it did close for four to five days to allow employees to take care of their families.
The chef went on to say that he feels fortunate that business has recovered so strongly. He continues to believe in the strength of the neighborhood as a food destination — so much so that he hopes to have his second concept, Nebraska Mini Mart, which he referred to as “an adult playground on steroids,” open by early summer.
It’s important to note that some establishments in the area saw little effect. Lisa Ianniello — general manager of the Front Porch & Bart’s Tavern, which lost power after Irma hit Tampa and was closed for two days — didn’t notice a decrease in business in October or November. If anything, she said there was a slight increase because the longtime bar and kitchen’s customer base is made up of residents more than folks who commute.
Ianniello thinks the fact that the Front Porch is located quite a distance from the murder sites could’ve been a factor as well (though her North Florida Avenue neighbors, like Rooster & the Till, had a different experience).
Bottom line: The second half of 2017 was rough for Seminole Heights. A serial killer and a pesky hurricane took their toll on multiple food spots. But the locals we spoke with have reported a strong comeback, an appreciation for community, and a belief that their neighborhood will keep on flourishing.
This article appears in Jan 18-25, 2018.