3 out of 5 stars
302 S. Howard Ave., Tampa
813-906-7885; barhwrdtampa.com
Appetizers: $3-$8; entrees: $2.50-$10; beer/wine/cocktails: $4-$9.
Preparing to open a new hospitality business is hard work. There are myriad decisions to be made about who your target audience is, how you attract them, and how you turn them into repeat customers. Bar HWRD, which opened in late September, has obviously thought long and hard about their physical space.
First of all, there’s a wonderful enormous parking lot immediately adjacent to the building. As you enter, there’s a long bar that opens up to a modern patio with a cornhole and Jenga court lined with artificial turf that says you can’t leave without having fun. In pleasant weather, it’s all got a very outdoor feel even if you’re against the wall at a high top sitting on one of the bright yellow metal stools next to the brick walls adorned with colorful oversized leaf murals.
At the far east end is a divider that separates this less formal space from a tall-ceilinged room with handsome booths and a giant sign that proclaims the name, “BAR HWRD,” in big theatrical lights above the second bar. My visit is on a weeknight when that room is empty, but it’s like a stage set; imagining the pulsing energy on a weekend is easy.
The website proudly announces that this is “Tampa’s Premier Bar Destination” where patrons will “Enjoy Our Crafted Cocktails.” I’m thinking that with the rising emphasis on imaginative drinks seemingly everywhere to challenge Ciro’s Speakeasy, that indeed there will be an enormous list of clever cocktails or perhaps a (misnamed) selection of flavored martinis, which BTW is only gin & vermouth—anything else is an imposter. I realize that popular culture now considers that as an anachronism, but please allow me some delusions.
However, as we sit down and peruse the menu from SoHo Fuego—which lingers just outside the walls—we’re informed by our charming server/bartender that there is no cocktail list. Huh? We inquire about a few favorite spirits and garnishes for some personal favorites only to be disappointed. There’s no wine list either, but they do stock some generic grape varietals. The point here, it seems, is quantity at very affordable prices, not complexity.
I end up with a very pleasant Sapphire G&T in a faceted bistro glass that’s made of plastic, which is also true of the wine glasses. Clearly, they’ve opted for attractive, indestructible vessels to deliver your favorite poison. My companion manages to get some flavored vodka with Prosecco that goes down nicely.
The food is surprisingly tasty. The salsa is smooth and smoky, the guacamole is creamy though a bit one-dimensional, but the tacos and quesadillas are made to order, fresh and piping hot. They’re all served in cardboard to-go containers, but they’ll do a more than adequate job of keeping you sober.
The proteins all pop with grilled char. The pork al pastor taco adds some sweet pineapple, spicy garlic shrimp gets purple cabbage crunch plus a touch of tartness from lime cream. The grilled chicken quesadilla boasts of roasted red pepper cream, while the campechana combo of beef carne asada and the pork is super juicy. You also have the option of upsizing any protein to a burrito. I enjoyed the tacos, but I must say that there’s something especially seductive about the quesadillas; melted cheese just wins you over.
Whether this is the place for you depends upon your goal for the evening. Think of Bar HWRD as “Tinder LIVE” with vodka, TVs, and tacos. Plus a splendid spot to toss a bean bag before you toss your cookies.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.
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