Sparkling wines for every pocketbook.

The wine of choice for special celebrations, including New Year’s Eve, is anything that sparkles. There's just something about seeing those little bubbles moving from the bottom to the top of a flute that puts people in a festive mood. Even better, sparkling wines are delicious and pair beautifully with a variety of popular holiday foods.

With crab, lobster, shrimp and scallops try a brut or demi-sec, the dryer of the sparkling wine styles. Turkey, chicken, rabbit and duck are delicious with a rose. Truffles work well with brut or rose. For cheese plates go with a blanc de blanc or rose, but avoid pairing most sparklers with strong blue cheeses. And for me there is nothing like a blanc de blanc with homey fried fish or chicken.

If money is no object, go directly to the Dom Perignon Vintage 2000 ($150). It is the quintessential Champagne. Tight, tiny bubbles give the wine a mousse-like mouthfeel. With white pepper on the nose, and crisp complexity on the palate, Dom Perignon is a joy to drink. A close second is Veuve Cliquot Vintage 2002 ($99). This elegant wine has bubbles that seem to last forever. Hints of anise and other spices are balanced by fruit.

This article appears in Dec 16-22, 2009.