Reflecting upon 52 weeks and hundreds of dishes, my memory travels back to the unshakable tastes that linger and linger, from restaurants big and small, from fancy special-occasion places to dives by the beach — and even one special wine. While any list of this sort is by definition personal, each taste reflects flavors in balance, with an element of surprise.
ANNATA
“Pick Seven” Charcuterie and Cheese Platter
This top-of-the-line charcuterie and cheese combo is gastronomic nirvana. The stunning garnishes are everything you could wish — green and ripe olives, small briny cornichon, fig jam, thin pointy quince paste triangles, vibrant dried apricots, Marcona almonds, whole-grain mustard, honeycomb oozing sweetness, and a sprinkling of micro greens. Just do it. 300 Beach Drive NE #128, St. Petersburg, annatawine.com
AVA
Grilled Bread with Olive Oil
The house-made bread has an amazing open, airy crumb with a crisp, chewy crust that I haven’t seen since I last spent time on Italian soil. Lightly brushed with olive oil and perfectly grilled with just a touch of char, it soars, and alone is worth the visit. 718 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, avatampa.com
BERN'S STEAK HOUSE
1964 Thomas Frères Beaune-Grèves (#7178)
If you love wine, you should give thanks daily that you live near Bern’s. With more than half a million bottles and 6,800 selections, it’s arguably the world’s greatest wine cellar. And the chance to drink 50-year-old Burgundy at $55 is phenomenal. This half-bottle of pinot noir is remarkably fresh, but has layers of complexity that only aged wine delivers. 1208 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, bernssteakhouse.com
BRICK & MORTAR
Carpaccio of Beef Tenderloin with Ravioli
Ultra-thin beef meets perfect house-crafted ravioli, and with the slightest twist of a fork, yolk from a soft poached egg filling bursts forth, leaking yellow gold with leek and goat cheese mousse. A touch of truffle oil and crisp greens combine to make your palate soar. 539 Central Ave., St. Petersburg, facebook.com/brickandmortarkitchen
CASTILE
Maine LobsterAjillo
The coral-hued crustacean swims in a garlicky, bright red-orange sauce. Pimentón (smoked paprika) plays a major role with caramelized sweet onion, serrano peppers and a welcome splash of Chablis, with its minerality and crisp acidity. Huge grilled focaccia slices meant for dipping are the essential garnish. 3701 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach, castilerestaurant.com
EL GALLO GRANDE
Flan
FARMTABLE KITCHEN
“From the Fishmonger” Course
FRESH KITCHEN
Coconut Cauliflower
FK teases diners with myriad choices of healthy options as you assemble your meal to taste. For my money, this cruciferous veggie with coconut and tinged brown edges is a treat not to be missed. The good news is that they’re expanding beyond their South Tampa location — a Fourth Street North opening in St. Petersburg is expected before the end of summer. 1350 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, eatfreshkitchen.com
GREEN SPRINGS BISTRO
Pesto-Seared Shrimp and Scallop Risotto
Creamy pesto risotto is topped with seared Key West pink shrimp and sea scallops. The shellfish are succulent, and the rice is perfectly creamy with just the right bite. The chiffonade of basil adds a proportional herbal note. Risotto is often a crap shoot; well, here you roll boxcars! 156 Fourth Ave. N., Safety Harbor, greenspringsbistro.com
HAVEN
Foie Gras and Beef Tongue Terrine
LITTLE TOMMIE'S TIKI
Pulled Pork Sandwich with Apple-Fennel Slaw
LOCAL PUBLIC HOUSE AND PROVISIONS
Root Beer Float
Chef and proprietor Curtis Beebe creates a float for connoisseurs with absolutely wonderful craft root beer from Abita, a microbrewer of note. Just as there’s a magical alchemy with leeks and potatoes to create the wonder of vichyssoise, creamy vanilla ice cream with the carbonated sweetness of sassafras can be transporting. 32750 Pennsylvania Ave., San Antonio, localpublichouse.com
LOCALE MARKET
Fettuccine with Sausage Ragù and Truffle Butter
MARKER 39
Nemo Rolls
NEW ENGLAND'S ALE HOUSE GRILLE
Apple Brown Betty
In an inspired coup d’kitchen, apple brown betty is served piping hot tableside in a 6-inch cast-iron skillet. The Early American-style warm, sweet cinnamon-spiced apples on a flaky crust are topped with crumbled strudel, caramel sauce, crème Anglaise and a generous scoop of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream with whipped cream. 3419 U.S. 19 Alt, Palm Harbor, ne-alehouse.com
NOBLE CRUST
Sweet Potato Ravioli
This sweet potato ravioli bursts with flavor. The “Southern soul” that marches hand in hand with Noble Crust’s “seasonal Italian” really shines here. The ravioli are perfectly firm and bathed in plenty of nutty brown butter hinting of sage and reinforced with a handful of whole crunchy pecans. It is a wonderful dish. 8300 Fourth St. N., St. Petersburg, noble-crust.com
PELAGIA TRATTORIA
White Chocolate Cheesecake
The textural juxtaposition of light, white chocolate cheesecake laced with with pears lightly poached in Frangelico hazelnut liqueur and accompanied by dark, seductive, syrupy amarena cherries is lip-smackingly good. This subtle flavor combo makes for a stellar conclusion to a meal at this Italian stalwart. 4200 Jim Walter Blvd., Tampa, pelagiatrattoria.com
PIZZERIA GREGARIO
Margherita Pizza with Whole Hog Sausage
POLLO GARDEN
Beef Taco
RED MESA MERCADO
Red Sangria
ROUX
Mumbo Jumbo Seafood Gumbo
STATION HOUSE
Tuna Poppa
SEA SALT
Kona Kampachi Tartare
Sea Salt’s old-school ring mold tower is a study in balance. Diced avocado, red onion, capers and sweet chili truffle sauce add texture and zing without overwhelming the delectable fish. Each item we taste is a complex mix of textures and flavors, but balance rules the day with every element playing its part to heighten the dish without overwhelming the seafood. 183 Second Ave. N., St. Petersburg, seasaltstpete.com
WILDFLOWER CAFE
Oatmeal-Cranberry-Pecan Cookie
The menu proudly announces an affinity for fresh-baked goods, all made in-house. They’re really good, yet I can’t get the big dried cranberry, oatmeal and pecan cookie sprinkled with sea salt out of my mind. It’s soft, crunchy, sweet and fruity all at once. 1465 S. Fort Harrison Ave. #105, Clearwater, wildflowercafe.net
WOODY'S WATERFRONT
Big Fish Special
This huge piece of beer-battered haddock fillet barely fits on the plate, and is served on Sundays and Mondays all day. The coating is perfectly crisp and crackling, so much so that I can’t bear to eat it with a knife and fork, lest I miss even a tiny shard juxtaposed against the juicy fish. 7308 Sunset Way, St. Pete Beach, woodyswaterfront.com