A gastronomic tsunami of cascading flavors was delivered in 2015. The mix of food traditions amazed. Tampa Bay chefs proved they could execute exciting dishes week after week, as the meek learned that inheriting the earth requires more than just showing up — technique counts.
All told, the highs outweighed the lows. I hope you expanded the range of food and drink in your culinary universe. Here are my epicurean takeaways from the past 12 months.
1. CL Pizza Marathon uncovers a world-class gem
While criss-crossing the bay on a search for the elusive pizza of my Italian dreams, I had no idea Pizzeria Gregario was serving up such a product in downtown Safety Harbor. Back in March, I established that pizza is personal, but the attention to detail from dough to sauce to cheese in the hands of artisan Greg Seymour gave me the pie I so longed for. If you haven’t been to Italy and you’re wondering what all the fuss is about, check out Gregario's.
2. The unabated rise of “radical ingenious burgerism”
As the crowdsourced list that Meaghan Habuda presented in CL’s Burger Issue, with drool-worthy photos by Nicole Abbett, attests, our love for this quintessential American sandwich has expanded way beyond the basic cheeseburger. In my review travels alone, I was confronted with delicious contemporary variations at Ford’s Garage, Engine Rose and Sweet Sage Cafe. The options include every imaginable protein, cheese, sauce and veggie. It’s an embarrassment of riches.
3. The Sundial aspires
Locale Market and FarmTable Kitchen raised the bar and challenged downtown St. Pete, as well as the entire Bay area, to become a gourmet haven. The Sundial’s aim is clearly aspirational, opening chef Fabrizio Aielli’s Sea Salt with Florida’s largest wine tower. Across the courtyard is the corporate Ruth’s Chris Steak House, delivering the first-class experience the brand represents.
4. Seminole Heights cements itself as a food hub
The Fabulous Bakers, chef Greg and Michelle of Refinery fame, expanded their empire with Fodder & Shine as the James Beard Awards (the food world’s Oscars) delivered a fourth consecutive Best Chef: South nomination. “I wouldn’t mind winning [the award] this year,” Greg told the Tampa Bay Business Journal in February. “But I’m not complaining. I’m grateful to be named a semifinalist. Better to be a pallbearer than a corpse.” Four minutes down the road, the avant-garde Rooster & the Till has expanded and celebrated its second anniversary. Of course, there are also newbies Hampton Station and Old Heights Bistro, plus Ella’s Americana Folk Art Cafe, Independent Bar and Cafe and…
5. Quick Asian chops and slurps to ecstasy
As if the food in Seminole Heights wasn’t good enough, there’s been an Asian invasion with flavor to knock your socks off. Chop Chop Shop’s Korean bowls follow the wonderful formula of meat + rice + sauce + side = explosive flavors at affordable prices. Not to be outdone, Ichicoro Ramen’s ethereal Japanese broth, noodles and one-of-a-kind shochu cocktails have patrons queuing out the door. If you haven’t supped on Florida Avenue recently, what are you waiting for?
CL covered downtown St. Pete’s culinary renaissance just two weeks ago, but you’ll note that Central Avenue, in particular, had a very good year. In addition to those places mentioned herein, The Cider Press Café proved raw and vegan mean thrilling, and Brick & Mortar brought some sublime dishes to the table.
7. Comfort food thrives across culinary traditions
The year began on a high note with Fresh Kitchen, and nearly each month delivered a new establishment with comforting dishes from a wide variety of gastronomic and ethnic origins. From the Latino joys of Red Mesa Mercado, the now-defunct Pollo Garden, and the expansive tastes at bartaco to Pom Pom’s Teahouse & Sandwicheria, Urban Comfort, Happy’s Bayou Bites and Kings Street Food Counter, there was high-quality, affordable food for all palates.
8. Top-flight cuisine rises
The Columbia Restaurant and Bern’s Steakhouse have perennially been special-occasion restaurants, synonymous with fine dining. Then came Mise en Place, followed by Cafe Ponte’s refined cuisine and Edison: Food+Drink Lab exploring modernist techniques. The visionary chefs from Seminole Heights help round out any list of the area’s notable meals. There are obviously others, but 2015 expanded the select list of those fine-dining establishments focused on finesse. Haven and FarmTable Kitchen aimed for the sky, while Dulcet Restaurant & Lounge, The Mill and Grey Salt burst on the scene with thrilling, high-technique dishes, competing for your business when you want to drop some bucks.
9. The Black Pearl & Living Room on Main pass the torch with ambition
Two of downtown Dunedin’s finest restaurants have become siblings and the basis for owner Zach Feinstein’s ZJF Brands. Feinstein is young and ambitious but also smart enough to retain the executive chefs who have given both places a loyal following. The Black Pearl has long been a favorite, and now it’s rocking a modern energy and web identity.
10. Clever craft cocktails continue crazy contagion
Ciro’s Speakeasy and Supper Club set a standard, but many of our best restaurants put equal emphasis on upping the quality of their spirit-based libations. On my tastings around the region this year, a whole slew of fresh restaurants featured cocktails of note. I’ve stopped insisting that a martini is limited to gin and vermouth and accepted that the iconic-shaped glass lends its name to an entire spectrum of drinks. From Souzou to bartaco, The Mill to Cask or The Hyde Out to Station House, we have many delicious choices for liquid worship.
This article appears in Dec 24-30, 2015.