There are only a few restaurant genres that span the breadth of dining habits from meat-and-potatoes chain regulars to inveterate foodies, and almost all of them feature low-end fare: sandwiches and comfort food done right, maybe with a little flair to surprise people who want to pay attention to what they're eating. And none of those genres is as universal as the diner.
It's not a fad — upscale diners have been a restaurant trend long enough that they almost deserve their own designation — but places that put a little something extra into their country-fried steak and mashed potatoes are still rare enough to turn a few heads. Clearwater's Diner Sixty West has just the right mix of old and new, comfort and cuisine, to get the attention of anyone who steps through the door.
At first glance, the place is, unexpectedly, a tad posh. Wooden boxes are suspended from the ceiling, with modern light fixtures reminiscent of Scan Design. Look a little closer, though, and you'll find folk art roosters tidily placed on walnut shelves, paper napkins on the tables and a grab-and-drop game filled to the brim with stuffed animals. It's not kitschy, just a blend of low- and high-end accoutrements that sets a pretty, but unfussy, scene.
Look at the menu and you'll find more of the same. Burgers, pasta and ribs — the heart of a diner's nighttime menu — and plenty of simple fried food dominate the pages. Despite a few flourishes like braised shortribs atop a specialty burger or lobster bisque on the soup selection, the food largely sticks to its roots. And, of course, sticks to your ribs.
Onion rings are thick and blanketed in batter that's simultaneously crunchy and tender — add some sugar and it could be carnival fried dough. Quesadillas, rarely a hit, are competent at Diner, stuffed with plenty of chicken, gooey cheese and red peppers, just the kind of thing that everyone at a table will nosh on without thinking. Chili ups the bar a bit, the thick stew redolent of real roasted chiles, some sweet spices and plenty of heat.
Burgers are big and tasty enough, albeit with a few caveats: more salt would be nice, and Diner only cooks to medium-well or higher. Still, the patties are loose enough to rescue a little tenderness from the rigors of heat and the fixin's are all fresh and fine. In any case, you're better off with a homecooked diner standard like meatloaf, or country-fried steak.
That meatloaf is soft and rich, slices stacked artistically on the plate and doused in gravy laced with a Worcestershire bite. Although there a few more spices in the mix than your momma probably used, Diner's loaf is classic, with none of the extra ingredients and chefly fiddling that goes on in higher-end restaurants. Country-fried steak is the same, just basic beef pounded thin and tender coated in a crackling, well-seasoned crust.
Diner's ribs are more reminiscent of bland chain fare — great texture, little flavor — but the roast chicken is a surprise. Simple stuff, sure, but there's a hint of grill smoke infusing meat that's full of juicy flavor.
The accompaniments to your main course are one of the pleasures of a diner experience, especially here. Order a regular entrée (all for around $10 or so) and you get a full meal — salad or soup and two sides — as part of the already inexpensive package. Sides range from exceptional creamed spinach and hand-cut fries to plain mashed potatoes or a veggie of the day, most of it good enough that you'd be happy to pay extra.
For the month of October, Diner has also offered a daily list of half-priced meals, which means that country-fried steak will run you under $5, including a single side and a bottomless bowl of soup. It's a massive deal.
That also means you'll have some room for dessert — if you hadn't already downed a milkshake or two. Or even if you had. Diner stocks a variety of homemade pies and cakes in a convenient display case up front. Those are humble desserts, with none of the massive meringue toppings or towering cake slices some might hope for, but those people can just order the waffle sundae: three scoops covering all the Neapolitan flavors, plenty of whipped cream and sauces, all atop freshly made waffles.
There are also simple breakfasts and some stripped-down sandwiches and lunch specials for earlier in the day. Diner had planned to be open 24-7, but after giving that a try the owners realized that the wee hours in Clearwater aren't as profitable as you might hope, even with few other late-night spots around.
They're still playing with the formula, but Diner's concept and execution is already strong enough to make anything the owners add mere gravy.
This article appears in Oct 28 – Nov 3, 2010.