2208 W. Morrison Ave., Tampa, 813-258-2233 or sideberns.com
4 stars
The toughest question I’m asked by friends and readers is: “What’s the best restaurant in Tampa?” You’d think it would be easy, but it isn’t. I can list my favorite places, or spots that are interesting, or restaurants that are good for first dates or important anniversaries, but — in my experience — there has never been a mainland Bay area restaurant that hits on all cylinders. Until now.
Accomplished and interesting cuisine is an important factor in a great restaurant, as well as environment and service, but there’s so much more to it than that. Some restaurants just try harder than others, think more about what they are doing and how to accomplish it, and work at extending the quality of the diner’s experience beyond the usual formula.
That pretty much sums up SideBern's.
Although rarely sublime, the food is always thoughtful and smartly executed. It’s also engaging and exciting, utilizing techniques and ingredients that most local chefs either neglect or know little about. Thank Executive Chef Chad Johnson, who revitalized the restaurant and silenced potential grumblers after Jeannie Pierola left a few years back.
Steak tartare here consists of roughly ground skirt steak in two discrete piles, one next to a pile of crisp red threads constructed of spicy red chiles, another topped by finely grated flakes of cheese. Hidden under the cheese are tiny specks of fried shallots that add a surprising crunch to each bite. Taken apart, everything on the plate is tasty; together, it’s one of the best dishes I’ve had in Tampa.
This article appears in Mar 17-23, 2011.