4 out of 5 stars
Appetizers, $5-$12; entrees, $15 – $23; desserts, $7; cocktails, $11 – $13.
1930 E. 7th Ave., Ybor City. 813-602-0960, 7thandgrove.com.
Cognitive dissonance surrounding slavery has been a pervasive factor throughout our history. Our founding documents declare “all men are created equal” while denying rights to women and people of color. It’s been a bumpy ride — even after the Emancipation Proclamation, the Reconstruction carpetbaggers were succeeded by the era of Jim Crow. It wasn’t until the mid-’60s that the Civil Rights Acts enshrined equality.
So is there even a tiny bright spot in the horrid legacy of involuntary immigration from west Africa and the subjugation of those ancestors?
What doesn’t get enough attention is that African-American women shaped the unique cuisine of the Old South. By the time Edna Lewis and Leah Chase became celebrated as beacons of Southern cuisine, even the white patriarchy knew that there was gastronomic genius afoot.
And so while we struggle as a culture in some sectors and need to remind the world that “Black Lives Matter,” we’re still the beneficiaries of these culinary roots.
Stepping into 7th + Grove is entering a magical world, highlighted by the transporting surreal murals of artist Carlos Pons Paz. There’s one on the back wall of the restaurant with a multi-armed blue-toned sprite in a flowery Esther Willams swim cap surrounded by enough ribbons to compete in the rhythmic gymnastics Olympics. Next door, in the adjacent lounge, a beautiful minx stares you in the eyes as she puffs on an icon of our famous cigar city.
We take our place and discover that mixologist Kelvin Williams’ cocktails revolve around infusions and fresh juices. One tablemate zeros in on his Honey Suckle Spritz. It’s a refreshing two-ounce pour of vodka (or dry gin) with orange liqueur, freshly squeezed lemon juice, local honey syrup made in house, a touch of Earl Grey tea, and a splash of Prosecco. In an elegant tall, thin-rimmed tumbler that decreases in circumference as it rises from the table, it’s pleasing on the palate and the eye.
Our starters prove that chef James Roberts is a master of this cuisine. Every dish is as balanced as it is surprising. “Awaken, My Love” is a duo of plump, juicy fried chicken lollipops with three cups of dipping sauce: soul reaper hot (which lives up to its name), grove lemon (with delightful, tart bright citrus) and bourbon BBQ (cooked with meat, luscious and not so sweet).
Our server is friendly and knowledgeable, plus the owners work the crowd and make all feel welcome. The entrées continue the clever R&B menu names. “Rude Boy” is a comfort food supernova. Perhaps because my late mother introduced me to them in my youth, braised oxtails hold a special place in my heart. If you’re a fan of lamb shanks, you’ll be delighted with these. There’s so much collagen that the meat is the lushest imaginable. It sits on a creamy, balanced sage and garlic mash with some braised veggies and crispy cornbread nuggets that have soaked up all the juices, but maintain their crunch. A sprinkling of thin green onions on top finishes off this wonder in style.
“Never Too Much” is a perfect, well-marbled Kansas City strip with lovely grill marks that’s sliced and tiled over textbook crispy Yukon Gold sage fries sitting on some Chow Chow relish and barbecue sauce. It’s all topped with a fried egg just for extra goodness. It’s really a simple dish, but the ingredients and technique are impeccable.
Smoked, seared tripletail called “Rock The Boat” is a firm, white fillet similar to snapper. The fish, although with an exterior dark to the eye, is surprisingly mild; some may find it bland. The smoked Gouda grits, however, and braised collards with broth add lots of flavor and the fried chicken cracklings garnish is a nice textural touch.
There are four desserts listed on the menu, but the kitchen is retooling the sweet side of their offerings. So they’re currently serving desserts not made in house. The good news is, until they return to baking, the jobbed-in desserts suffice. Piña colada cheesecake is sweet and creamy, while the Mississippi mud pie is light and not so rich as to be cloying. However, I do look forward to seeing what Southern delights come out of Chef Roberts’ kitchen. There’s also a dreamy brunch menu and an overactive special events schedule. Check it all out on Facebook until the website is revamped.
The Ybor City location was chosen because the owners value inclusivity and diversity. As CL reported earlier, they “love the rich culture… of different nationalities and sexual orientations.” In our heated political environment, where fear is around every corner, it’s empowering to let it go. 7th + Grove is a place to (in the motto emblazoned on the wall and in neon) “Eat. Vibe. Flourish.” As a white, male, boomer I am “woke” when it comes to my privilege. I’m happy to report that dining at 7th + Grove is a human privilege available to all. Diversity is a gift; don’t take it for granted; celebrate here instead.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, and email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
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This article appears in Sep 12-19, 2019.