The fare at this new restaurant is about as far away from sorry Taco Bell as skanky Christina Aguilera is from prim Miss Manners. Its fare is fresh and handmade, based on family recipes and relentlessly patrolled by owner Alberto Morillo, who puts in 18- to 20-hour days. We loved its fabulous veggie quesadillas, its dark, rich chicken in red mole sauce, and its fantastic tortilla soup. Throw in a beer and a bowl full of crispy chips, plus a whole condiment table of dewy-fresh salsas of varying degrees of heat, and presto, you have what it takes to attract finicky diners. End with the cheesecake-thick flan and a cup of steaming Mexican hot chocolate — buen gusto!
Algusto Tortilla & Salsa Mexican Restaurant, 912 W. Kennedy Blvd., Tampa, 813-250-3500.
This article appears in Sep 25 – Oct 1, 2003.