The noise and service are reminiscent of Chez L’Ami Louis in the 3rd arrondissement. The thick slab of perfectly sautéed foie gras floating on fig jam-smeared brioche French toast is like crack. The tomato tart is also addictive, a creamy wonder with the unexpected marriage of goat cheese, lavender/wild fennel pollen and oven-dried tomatoes. Add quintessential hanger steak and pastries to die for and your daydream of the “city of light” springs to life.