The true test of a quality restaurant is its soup. If it tastes like “add water and stir,” run away. But if it tastes like Mom made it, hang like wallpaper. At Noho Bistro, a mom does make the soup. Noho, owned by Mike Long and Jessica Raia-Long, is a tiny little lunch bistro specializing in sandwiches and a daily hot entree. Everything is excellent, but the soups excel. Take the clam chowder, for instance. Big chunks of clams, smoked ham and soft potatoes bathe in a succulent, expertly seasoned cream base that woos your tongue. The portion is enough to fill you for hours, and comes with a hunk of fresh bread from Great Harvest Bread Company. The clam chowder isn’t served everyday, but call Jessica and beg her to feed your jones. 1912 N. Howard Ave., Tampa, 813-514-0691.
This article appears in Sep 14-20, 2005.