When a hip edge-of-downtown space adopts Southern and soul-food influences, one might be forgiven for anticipating something mediocre and overpriced. But Urban consistently delivers amazing low-and-slow meats presented in a variety of ways, along with the now-expected craft brews, a unique take on barbecue sauces, and tasty sides — including some of the best collards available anywhere that takes plastic. It’s little, and it’s popular, so pick your battles as far as when you stop in, but crowded or not, it’s always worth it.
This article appears in Sep 18-24, 2014.