BEST UGLY DISH

Marsala potatoes, Ciccio & Tony's

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In color and texture, it looks like something you might scrape from the air conditioner's drain pan, but take a whiff and it'll transport you to heaven. It's a fancy type of mashed potato enriched with three kinds of mushrooms — crimini, porcini and shiitake — and zapped with Marsala wine and plenty of butter. It comes as a side dish with various entrées, usually accompanied by steamed vegetables.

Ciccio & Tony's Restaurant, 1015 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, 813-251-8406 or www.ciccioandtonys.com.

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