You call this fun?
Suddenly I found myself on my back, lodged between the front and middle seat of a canoe, feet pointed forward, while two large golden silk spiders scurried with all 16 legs across my chest. The arachnids were climbing off the fool who had just dislodged them.
It was a bright spring morning on the Hillsborough River. Shafts of light burst through the lush green canopy above.
A fallen oak had blocked our path.
In a rare moment of feeling agile and graceful, I had climbed from the front seat onto the tree, while the canoe slid beneath it. My intention was to gently drop back into the canoe once the front seat cleared the obstruction, but I had obviously misjudged my grace, from which I fell with a resounding, canoe-shaking thud.
"Are you all right?" Ken Kramer asked.
Rule of thumb: never paddle alone in a wilderness. Ken guides for Canoe Escape, an outfitter. Ken is my canoe mentor, the Zen master of the J-stroke.
We were in the wilds of The Seventeen Runs, a remote natural area of the Hillsborough River. Before entering The Runs, near a place encouragingly called The Dead River Site, a prankster had erected a sign: ABANDON HOPE ALL YE WHO ENTER HERE.
I appreciated Ken's presence and the fact that he did not laugh at me over my log-negotiating skills. Instead I laughed, great belly shakers, relieved that I was alive — and still dry.
Paddling West Coast Florida doesn't have to be that hard. It doesn't require mountain men or triathlete skills. It obviously does not require grace or agility either.
Within 45 minutes of Tampa and Sarasota are splendid canoe and kayak journeys, some amazing simply to negotiate. Others are a little rugged, for those who like their paddling with a little zip to it. Knowing the difference allows you to pick what suits you.
On the gentle paddles, natural beauty abounds. Barbara Bush could do these paddles. Janet Reno probably has.
Although everyone loves easy paddling, tough trips have a place in our hearts. It is where we create our legends. On rough trips, no one is happy until the trip is over. Then it is suddenly transformed into a tale told over and over, with the difficulty of the trip increasing exponentially with each telling.
Rivers are usually the province of canoes, although kayakers frequently break the rules. Kayakers are like that. The seas are almost exclusively where kayaks venture.
Lazy paddling in the rivers requires the right stretch and in-between water levels. Too much water and you are dangerously exposed to bridges without enough room — treetops as you speed by could rip you right off your tiny little boat. Too little water, and the trip becomes rugged because of obstacles, like fallen logs and limestone boulders. You may even find yourself carrying that 70-pound canoe.
Ease or challenge on saltwater paddles depends on tides, winds and weather.
Fortunately, from the Hillsborough to the Peace River, there are numerous outfitters and tour guides ready to make it a piece of cake for those who like sweets, or rugged work for those who like to sweat. Here are some paddles, presented roughly north to south.
Hillsborough River The signature journey of Canoe Escape is the 4.5 miles from Sargeant Park on U.S. 301 north of Tampa to Wilderness Park on Morris Bridge (easterly Fletcher Avenue from I-75). This peaceful trip is perhaps the most likely one around in which to spot otters in the wild. Limpkins, herons, ibis, egrets, belted kingfishers and alligators abound. Wild pigs forage on the banks, and you sometimes see deer. One really big alligator at Wilderness Park is so well known he is nicknamed Hank, and last year brave park rangers talked of removing a fishing lure from his hide (do not try this one yourself). The difficult trip is The Seventeen Runs above Sargeant Park (4.2 miles). Within Hillsborough River State Park, there are also rapids, and canoes can be rented but not taken out of the park boundaries. Outfitters: Canoe Escape, 813-986-2067 or www.canoeescape.com; and Oak Haven River Retreat, 813-988-4580 or www.oakhavenriverretreat.com. With its deep green lushness, the Hillsborough River is arguably the finest river paddle on the coast for natural splendor.
Anclote Key The area around Anclote Key is a favorite of local kayakers. Kayak fisherman also take advantage of the fish-attracting, warm waters of a power plant near the public boat launch south of the junction of Alternate 19 and State Road 582 in Tarpon Springs. It is likewise possible to launch from Howard Park, announced by prominent signs along Alternate 19 in Tarpon Springs. From Howard Park, it is a 3-mile paddle to Anclote Key. It is about 2 miles long and lies within Anclote Key State Preserve. The island in front of it is Dutchmans Key, and to the north appropriately are the North Keys. Because of the distance, a trip to Anclote Key is a paddle for those with some confidence and skill in handling the wakes from passing boats.
Honeymoon and Caledesi Islands In the 1940s, a developer ran an ad in Life Magazine promoting Honeymoon Island as a honeymooner's paradise. I grew up here and can attest that youngsters from Clearwater and Dunedin swarmed to the island to walk hand-in-hand on isolated beaches and spoon on blankets. The island is no longer isolated, and these days, you are more likely to see ospreys and great horned owls than romancing couples. Caledesi was also a lonely island back then, but a pass has now filled in and connected it to Clearwater Beach. Both islands are state parks. Kayakers often put in from the causeway to Honeymoon Island. A 3.25-mile canoe trail has been created by Caledesi Island State Park. You can reach Caledesi from Honeymoon Island by taking a short boat ride across the pass, where tides can be a little rippy. There is a fee for the boat ride, and service is first come, first served. A concession on Caledesi rents kayaks, and the last boat from Honeymoon leaves around 4 p.m., while the first is around 10 a.m. Call 727-469-5942 for details.
Tampa Bay Northern portions of the bay are generally more sheltered and thus offer more tame paddling. Mad Paddlers rents kayaks and offers eco-tours (813-243-5737, www.madpaddlers.com) from the Town and Country area of Tampa. Canoe Outpost (727-864-1991) rents crafts from Fort De Soto Park in St. Petersburg. Weedon Island on the southwest side of the Gandy Causeway on the way into Pinellas Park has a pretty mangrove trail, with kayaks and canoes available for rent from nearby Sweetwater Kayaks. Many serious and beginning kayakers use Sweetwater Kayaks (727-570-4844, www.sweetwaterkayaks.com) for Tampa Bay trips, to learn to paddle and to acquire craft. Sweetwater also outfits for trips from Fort De Soto Park to Mullet Key to the north and holds advanced paddles to Egmont Key and Anna Maria Island monthly. Cockroach Bay, south of Sun City and off U.S. 41 on Cockroach Bay Road, has two trails in the mangroves, but bring your own canoe or kayak. Paddling in those areas can be generally peaceful as long as there is good weather, but traveling out into the mouth of Tampa Bay is sportier and somewhat dangerous, due to often-powerful currents.
Alafia River During high water, the sole outfitter on the Alafia River, Alafia Canoe Rentals, puts you in at Alderman Ford Park and you paddle to the outfitter's place of business along the river. There are some small rapids in between. In lower water, the paddle is from their place of business to a small public ramp west of Lithia Springs. There is one short run of small rapids, and to make it a little thrilling for the amateur, it is located on a curve, thus increasing the difficulty. To arrange trips, call Alafia Canoe Rentals at 813-689-8645. Despite a catastrophic phosphoric acid spill in 1999, wildlife has made a comeback on the river, and a plenitude of birds, turtles and alligators are easily seen. Alderman Ford is located off State Road 39 in southeast Hillsborough County. From State Road 39, a west turn on County Road 640 leads to Lithia Springs.
Little Manatee River From Canoe Outpost (813-634-2228) on U.S. 301 south of Sun City, the trip to Little Manatee River State Park is 5 miles. This is usually a winding trip of great ease and natural beauty. More strenuous paddles begin north on Leonard Lee Road east of Wimauma, including a short shoal. Manatees are sometimes seen in the lower parts of the river. The prolific purple flowers in the fall are climbing aster.
The Manatee County Blueway A greenway is a land trail, while a blueway is a wet one. By statue, the State of Florida declared a circumnavigation trail about Florida. Several Gulf Coast counties have designated their own blueways. Inspired by local public servants and with assistance from the National Park Service, Manatee County was ahead of the curve on blueways, establishing trails in early 2002. Seventy-five miles of trails provide nonstrenuous paddling in normal conditions. Call 941-742-5923 or visit www.co.manatee.fl.us, under Parks and Recreation for a free brochure with maps and outfitters. Kayaking in Terra Ceia and Palma Sola bays passes over rich seagrass and by mangroves teeming with birds and fish.
Manatee River The Manatee River has a trail that is state-designated as the Upper Manatee River Trail and stretches 5 miles from Rye Wilderness Park on Rye Road and ends at Manatee River Resorts on Upper Manatee River Road. Both roads are to the north of State Road 64 when you exit east from I-75 in Bradenton. Ray's Canoe Hideaway outfits the river and has a primitive camping site (941-747-3909, www.rayscanoehideawy.com). There is one confusing area below Rye Park where you should bear to your right or you will end up in a Boy Scout camp.
Braden River The 4 to 5 miles between Linger Lodge and Jiggs Landing are peaceful except when you go under the roar of I-75. Linger Lodge is an unusual place in itself where the visitor can eat gator tail while surrounded by stuffed rattlesnakes, bobcats, a panther and be greeted at the door by a stuffed Florida black bear. From State Road 70 west of I-75, Linger Lodge lies at the end of wandering Braden River Road. This paddle requires you to bring your own canoe or kayak; you'll also need a friend who can park a car at the take-out at Jiggs Landing (on the same road), a hunk of old Florida. There is a nominal fee for parking. Do not proceed too far beyond Jiggs Landing unless you like being dangerously close to a dam.
Sarasota County Blueway Sixteen trails have been proposed for inclusion in the Sarasota County Blueway, and the county staff has been directed to finalize the plan. There are many put-ins on Sarasota Bay and lots of places to explore. Some of the favorite paddles for local kayakers will be included in the trail, such as The Lido Canoe Trail from South Lido Park. Other paddles extend into Lemon and Little Sarasota bays. In the meantime, all three outfitters for the Myakka River entry can outfit trips within the bays. Informational brochures are coming and can be requested from Parks and Recreation at 941-316-1172.
Myakka River While canoes can be rented in Myakka River State Park east of Sarasota on State Road 72, you cannot take these canoes out of the park. Thus, traveling the river usually depends on one of three outstanding outfitters and guide services that lead regularly scheduled trips. The Myakka offers perhaps the largest — and certainly the most prolific — alligators in the area. While it's not a river for the gator-phobic, paddling groups do safely make the trip each year and are treated to incredible natural sights. Outfitters: Economy Tackle (941-922-9671, www.floridakayak.com), Kayak Treks (941-365-3892, www.kayaktreks.com), and Osprey Kayak Tours (941-966-7308). Outfitters usually paddle from just outside the park to Lower Myakka Lake and back, or travel 15.5 miles to Snook Haven Resort, once featured in a Tarzan movie called Attack of the Killer Turtles. A dam along the way requires some work in low water and may be invisible when the level is high. Snook Haven (941-485-7221) is another charming old slice of Florida worth visiting; to find it, exit west from I-75 on River Road south of Sarasota. The resort is on the left side of the road.
Charlotte County Blueway When the long-awaited Charlotte County Blueway was announced at the end of February 2003, many paddlers were surprised and greatly pleased. Fifty-three separate trails totaling 212 miles are incorporated within the county's Blueway system. This astonishing length is longer than a drive from Sarasota to Ocala or Tampa to Lake City. Obviously, this many miles of trails will take any individual a long time to explore, and given the different seasons and weather conditions, could in itself include many paddles of a lifetime. A brochure has been issued by Charlotte County with a great deal of information, including launches, trail names, trail lengths, difficulty rating, descriptions and rating of scenery. This brochure can be obtained free from Charlotte County Parks and Recreation at 941-625-7529 or www.charlottecounty.fl.com.
Peace River At 106 miles, the Peace is the longest river in our area and has its origins in what are normally puddles in Hillsborough and Polk counties. By the time it bursts into Charlotte Harbor three counties later, it is perhaps 1 mile wide and tidal influenced. While the Peace River flows from Lake Hancock slightly north of Bartow to Charlotte Harbor, upper sections of the river are often too shallow to paddle; thus paddles usually take place from Fort Meade, Bowling Green, Wachula, Arcadia, and from other landings along the way. Approximately 60 miles are a state-designated canoe trail with many landings. Various smaller rivers, including Horse, Shell and Myrtle creeks, make their way into the Peace or Charlotte Harbor. Discerning current condition is best left to the judgment of local outfitters. There are three: Canoe Outpost (863-494-1215, www.canoeoutpost.com), Canoe Safari (863-494-7865, www.canoesafari.com), and Peace River Canoes (863-773-6370). In times of drought, the Peace often becomes a spot for river walking, where you tug your canoe along through about six inches of water. One day while doing just this, I gazed skyward at a swallow-tail kite and further proved my grace by tripping over my own feet and falling face down into a shallow Peace River, a refreshing experience under the summer sun.
Tips for Novices For those who haven't done much or any paddling, some words of advice to make the journey both comfortable and safe: Take sun block, water and a personal flotation device. Many people don't wear the PFD, but children are required by law to wear them. Please put one on anyone who doesn't swim.
During insect season, take repellent, particularly into the salt marshes and mangroves, and perhaps Benadryl spray for when the repellent fails. Sun block in itself often wards off many biting flies.
Also get some training on what to do if you spill. No matter how confident, we all spill sometime. There you are, moving along like the king or queen of the world, and splat! You're in the water, perhaps looking up at your craft, and in the case of some kayaks, you may still be seated in it, upside down and underwater.
Be sure you know how to get back into that canoe, or out and onto that kayak, called re-mounting. If you don't know, get a quick class from an outfitter before putting out on the water.
Another potential hazard for kayakers is swamping. This can happen in heavy seas, which most people should avoid. But it can also happen at times from boat wakes.
There is a technique for stabilizing kayaks when that jerk with the cigar boat rips by at 60 miles an hour. If you intend to kayak in waters that have boaters, learn this technique too. It is, trust me, not a real hard one.
These trips represent well over a 1,000 miles of paddling, both easy and difficult. Those miles are full of wildlife encounters and nature viewing. For beginners, the small bit of your time required to learn how to paddle safely will be rewarded with experiences worth remembering. Remember to create your own personal legend by trying at least one hard paddle after learning to enjoy the easy ones.
Tim Ohr is the author of Florida's Fabulous Natural Places, among other books. He is the editor of many titles in the Florida's Fabulous nature series and a frequent contributor to regional magazines. He is currently at work on a book about the Okefenokee Swamp, and his Florida's Fabulous Canoe and Kayak Guide is scheduled for publication in May/June.
This article appears in May 14-20, 2003.