Parking in Clearwater Beach is always suspect, so I’m pleased to see that Opal Sands Resort, housing the splendid new Sea-Guini (as in linguini), has valet parking ($10 plus tip, with validation). But it’s when I rise on the escalator to the lobby that my pulse quickens.
Huge windows, which are essentially an enormous glass wall, look out past the sleek terrace toward the sun setting over the calm waters of the gulf. The striking amber glow bathes the splendid couches and wing chairs dotting the spacious lobby.
To the left is the shiny glass floor-to-ceiling wine cellar, displaying its labels for all to see. At the corner, what catches my eye is a column of prestige Champagne. Three bottles of Dom Pérignon (with its iconic label) form the base for a rising stack of all the great bubbly coming from northeast France. As my coveting eagle eye moves in for a closer look, I also notice plenty of well-chosen bottles that I’m able to afford.
Happily emboldened as my posse moves to our table, I note the hanging lights above the sleek, modern bar resemble sapphire-colored balloon sculptures — twisting, turning and intertwining into variegated globes dangling above the chic guests. The center of the room features a thin glass wall that continuously bubbles while cycling through every color of the rainbow.
Just after we’re comfortably seated, crisp rolls arrive with white bean dip topped with a dollop of olive tapenade. Our server makes a show of adding balsamic vinegar to the sea salt in a shallow white ceramic dish, and then dramatically using a silver pitcher with a long pouring spout to add a thin stream of bright green EVOO for our dipping pleasure.
Sadly, service for the rest of the evening is ragged. I assume this will improve over time, given the attention to detail at the restaurant’s sibling property, Caretta on the Gulf. Luckily, the food is mostly excellent.
We start with two terrific apps. One is polpette, two light and flavorful baseball-sized, butcher blend house-made meatballs covered in melted buffalo mozzarella and pecorino Romano with a rich San Marzano tomato-basil sauce. They’re big enough to be an entrée. Equally as tasty is gamberetti, salty prosciutto di Parma wrapping juicy jumbo shrimp on a bed of arugula with bruschetta tomatoes, tangy balsamic and creamy lemon burro (butter) sauce. Just divine.
The lobster bisque is rich and creamy, highlighting sherry notes that take a back seat. Sweet lobster chunks sit on an oven-baked crostini garnish at the bottom of the bowl. It’s a tad salty but still luscious.
The entrées continue the Mediterranean theme quite successfully. The house-crafted rigatoni are swathed in a creamy house Bolognese, whose long simmering melds beef, wine and tomatoes into one of the ultimate Italian comfort foods.
Along the same lines is the Barolo-braised short rib. When you slow-braise short ribs in one of the great Itaiian reds with a rich herb and beef broth, the result is full-flavored meat that shreds easily under the pressure of your fork. The meat rests in a wonderful stewed lima bean ragù with porcini mushroom jus and the sweet-and-sour punch of tender “agrodolce” onions, plus al dente pan-roasted baby carrots.
My favorite entrée is the local bay grouper roasted in a fresh herb and bread crumb crust. The seductive, juicy fish sits on creamy lemon-basil risotto with sautéed baby field spinach surrounded by smoked yellow tomato and pepper coulis, as well as some bright green basil oil. The flavor mashups sing.
The only divergent element from universally excellent food is the pizza. Regular readers know that I surveyed the region’s pie scene in a marathon last year. I had high hopes while watching the pizza chef expertly spin the dough in the air and place pies in the Wood Stone hearth oven. Despite the oven’s lovely gas flames inside, the dough is a pallid imitation of first-class wood-fired pizza. Although the oven-roasted tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, house-made pomodoro sauce and plenty of torn basil are first-class toppings, the crust lacks the puffy cornicione and is mostly reminiscent of something frozen from Publix. Back to the drawing board.
Our dessert choices are lovely in taste and appearance. The torta di ricotta limon is plated beautifully, as the ricotta cheesecake is dotted with cream and a dried lemon half- moon chip. Two stunningly good Amarena cherries, dripping with syrup, are a perfect accent. Unfortunately, it’s served frozen. My first attempt to snag a bite has it bouncing off the plate across the table, and because the dessert’s not made from cream cheese, its grainy texture is exaggerated. Perhaps they should serve from the fridge, or otherwise hold it at a higher temp. I saved a bit and ate it about 30 minutes later on my way home — the difference was striking.
The round tiramisu is wrapped in chocolate lace and finished with an edible marigold. The layers are luscious, yet the coffee is subtle, too much so for one companion. I’m appropriately seduced, though, especially with the accompanying chocolate, coffee and raspberry sauces. Yum.
Our server returns the parking claim check, cleverly punched with a decorative flower-power hole. And so we leave, feeling validated indeed.
Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.
This article appears in Mar 24-30, 2016.