If there is one cuisine singularly identified with the history of Tampa, it’s Cuban food, mixed with a dash of Spanish and Italian — the ethnic mix whose labor force kept the cigar factories humming in the early 20th century. The Cuban culinary tradition continues on Columbus Drive. The corridor has been nicknamed “Boliche Boulevard” after the popular dish made from eye round roast, chorizo sausage and tomato sauce, and at the eateries and bakeries that line the drive, Tampa Cuban fare abounds. We’re talking black beans, yellow rice, and lots of pork products — and the Cuban bread is so fresh that the palmetto leaves are still tucked into the crust.
Arco Iris. Order the vaca frita, a pile of shredded beef marinated overnight in garlic, lime, and lemon, and pan-fried with onions until crispy. Don’t want meat? Arco Iris makes some of the best black beans around. 3328 W. Columbus Drive, Tampa, 813-879-1357.
The Lincoln Spanish Restaurant. Nestled at the corner of Lincoln and Columbus adjacent to La Teresita’s cafeteria and bakery, The Lincoln serves a classic chicken and yellow rice. If you’re feeling more adventurous, order the whole snapper. Soups and boliche are good and cheap. 3247 W. Columbus Drive, 813-354-8335.
La Teresita Cafetería. The menu is filled with traditional dishes like picadillo (ground beef and sauce), masas de puerco (fried pork chunks) and boliche mechado (stuffed eye round roast). Try anything, try everything. La Teresita is good, cheap and open 24 hours on the weekends. 3248 W. Columbus Drive, 813-879-9704.
El Tropical Café and Market. Try the Cuban sandwich. That’s all you need to know. 2902 W. Columbus Drive, 813-644-7137.
Guanabo Coffee Shop. In the morning, nothing beats the Cuban cheese toast and café con leche — a combo that costs just three bucks. The bread is baked fresh that day, toasted with butter and melted cheese. And you’re bound to encounter at least one old man speaking passionately in Spanish about something really important. 3300 W. Columbus Drive, 813-871-2469.
This article appears in Jun 14-20, 2012.