It’s one thing to read the headlines regarding President Obama’s effort to restore diplomacy between the U.S. and Cuba, which was most recently evidenced with the reopening of a U.S. Embassy. It’s another to realize that, holy shit, you can probably visit Cuba if you want — that is, if you’re willing to give up some of your daily technological trappings and adhere to relatively strict travel criteria.
In fact, some people say now’s the time to do it. As the thaw between the U.S. and Cuba continues, there’s concern that the country could gradually get Americanized, even in the face of resistance from political leaders.
“You need to go now before it opens up,” says Edward Garcia, president of the Tampa to Cuba Partnership, an agency that organizes cultural tours of the country.
If you do want to strike while the mojo is hot, here are some basics on how to get there and what to do once you arrive.
Who can go?
There are 12 traveler categories permitted into Cuba, among them academics, students, artists, performers, members of the media, volunteers and, of course, Cuban-Americans who wish to visit relatives there. If you don’t fit into any of the categories, there’s a murkier cultural experience category that allows you to travel with help from third party companies like the Tampa to Cuba Partnership or south Florida’s Cuba Travel Services, both of which can organize (typically group) tours ahead of time for those seeking a cultural experience.
How to get there
While pretty much anyone can now go to Cuba, the manner by which you travel is still limited. Even though there are now direct flights to and from Tampa International Airport, most travelers can’t simply buy a ticket in Tampa and hop on a plane to Havana. You can book a trip through a tour company like the agencies mentioned above. Students can go on educational excursions there, as a group from St. Petersburg’s Eckerd College recently did. Ferry service and small cruise lines will soon start stopping there, and we’ve even been seeing ads for LGBT Cuba cruises, and other excursions catering to various groups.
Is it possible to go on your own?
We aren’t suggesting you bend the rules by traveling to Cuba unchaperoned, but we have heard of some people sneaking into Cuba on their own from Mexico or the Cayman Islands. But even if the Obama administration isn’t particularly inclined to ruthless enforcement of current travel restrictions, travel to Cuba strictly for tourism as an American is still illegal and you could run into problems trying to get back into the U.S. if your passport bears a Cuba stamp. In short, it’s illegal and we aren’t recommending it.
How much advance notice do you need?
Obviously, you’ll need a passport, which can take weeks to acquire or renew. You’ll also need a travel visa, which can take a few weeks as well. Typically the agency you’re traveling with will take care of the visa application process. When you contact an agency about a possible trip, provide a date range rather than a specific set of dates, advises Garcia.
Which airlines go to Cuba?
Several, including American Airlines and JetBlue, offer service to Cuba. But, again, you can’t just book a flight to the country on those companies’ respective websites. Instead, direct flights are typically chartered by the companies organizing trips there.
What to pack/not pack
Tampa International Airport Media Relations Manager Janet Zink recommends common sense when packing — bring what you use in everyday life, and make sure not to go overboard. (She was bummed, though, when airport security took away her cuticle clippers ahead of one of her trips to the country.) You’ll need an adapter for any electronics you bring, not that your smartphone will be of much use to you during your stay.
There’s some debate among travelers over one essential.
“Some people say you need to take toilet paper, but that’s not really true,” says Zink.
While TP might not be as readily available as it is in the U.S., hotels and other tourist areas offer it freely. But in many other places you have to pay for it — so either bring your own or have some extra change on hand to offer bathroom attendants in exchange for a few squares.
How much money to bring
The same thing that will keep you off Facebook for the bulk of your trip is also what renders your credit cards useless, as Cuba offers little access to the internet, except in some nicer hotels. Tom Scherberger, who heads the Eckerd College media relations division, accompanied a group of students from the college that recently spent two weeks there. He recommends allotting $75 to $100 a day, assuming your hotel is already paid for.
The poor there are very poor, he adds, and rely heavily on tips, busking and panhandling, so if you’re the generous sort, he recommends keeping that in mind when you calculate how much to bring.
“I probably gave out more money in Havana to people asking for money than I ever would give in St. Petersburg,” he says.
More on money
Scherberger adds that it costs more there is a 10 percent conversion fee on any U.S. money you want to change into Cuban convertible pesos (CUCs) — the currency tourists use in the country. Not so for euros. That's why it’s wise to change your dollars into euros while you're still in the U.S., then change euros into CUCs when you get to Cuba.
Where to stay
Even as the U.S. stalemate with Cuba wore on in the second half of the 20th century (and the first decade and a half of this one), tourists from everywhere else have visited the island nation. There are plenty of hotels, hostels and homestay options (the latter known as casas particulares). The website Airbnb has been helping locals rent out their homes for months, though the limited internet access on the island means that reserving a place can take days.
Where to go
“Get out of Havana,” says Scherberger.
While there’s a lot to do in the city, including an excellent modern art museum and tons of nightlife, the historic sites and natural beauty throughout the country are highly worthwhile, he says, adding that the Las Terrazas region and Santiago de Cuba, the country’s second largest city, are among places to check out.
How to get around
If you’re traveling with a group, you can expect to ride in a chartered bus to many of the sights. But you can also rent a car or bicycle, hire a driver or use public transportation — buses and trains — to get where you’re going. If you need to get to the other side of the island, you can also go by air.
What are the people like?
“I thought everyone was really very friendly,” Zink recalls. “I felt safe everywhere I went. People were poor but I never felt scared.”
When she would talk to locals, she says, they were generally enthused about the direction the country is going in terms of relations with the U.S.
Scherberger warns that, while the country is safe, women travelers shouldn’t be shocked if they are catcalled while exploring Havana, and men shouldn’t be surprised if they get approached by prostitutes.
“They can be either subtle or pretty brazen,” he says. “One of them, I told her I was gay just to get her away from me.”
How is the food?
In a word, varied.
Many places do not source fresh ingredients, Scherberger says, aside from tropical fruit and seafood.
Many of the best restaurants, he points out, are paladares, which are privately run out of people’s homes.
Also, the Cuban sandwich as we know it is not really a thing there. You’ll find plenty of ham and cheese sandwiches,
though, as well as one comprising a bizarre combo of ham, pork, cheese and a sliced hot dog.
What to shop for
Clothing is overpriced, says Scherberger, but there are other things you’re likely to find surprisingly cheap.
“Buy art,” he advises. “The art in Cuba is amazing and cheap [and] as varied as you can imagine.”
And beware of who is selling you cigars. It’s better to buy them at your hotel or from a cigar shop than someone offering
them to you dirt cheap on the street.
“You’ve got to be very careful with cigars. We got burned with some bad what were supposedly Cohibas. Maybe they were Cohibas, but they were bad. They were really the worst cigars we had there.”
And then there’s rum.
“The best place to buy your rum is at the duty-free shop on your way back,” says Zink.
This article appears in Jul 16-22, 2015.