The end of my first year of grad school was in sight and all I could think about was immediately getting out of Florida, even if it was only for a few days.
I called my older sister and suggested we take a much-needed vacation. We considered our options: the West Coast, New York, Tennessee. But not having that much disposable income, we decided to stay closer to home: Asheville, NC. I'd heard only good things about the eclectic city and several friends told me I would enjoy the town's laid-back, artsy vibe.
We wanted to make the trip without spending more than $500 (not including the hotel expense) between the two of us. Our budget included gas, food, souvenirs and the cost of attractions. We managed to leave the "Land of the Sky" with a little more than $100 left in our wallets. And aside from the cost of Biltmore tickets, we spent a majority of our money on nice dinners.
One month after we booked the hotel, Liz and I were in the car heading north to the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Friday Night: Downtown Asheville
We arrived in the early evening and checked into the Marriott Fairfield Inn & Suites. Shortly after unpacking we hit downtown Asheville, which was an easy 10-minute drive from the hotel. As soon as we got out of the car, we saw a guy strolling down the sidewalk, strumming a guitar and singing to nobody in particular — just enjoying the evening's fresh air. He matched the Asheville stereotype so perfectly that we had to laugh.
He was headed to Pritchard Park, site of the Friday night drum circle. Liz and I watched the musicians and spectators gear up for the rhythmic party. However, before we could tune in to the beats, we had to grab some eats.
We sat down at the Jerusalem Garden Café, a Mediterranean restaurant located on Patton Avenue right across from the park. I ordered lamb with grilled onions served over rice and vegetables. I've had better lamb, but overall the meal was satisfying. Our waitress was extremely pleasant and the décor was colorful, with intricate Persian designs on deeply hued blue and red walls, and circular metal tables flanked by richly patterned cushions and banquettes. As we dined, a graceful belly-dancer moved to the sounds of sitar and the improvised beat of bongos.
We returned to the park as dusk approached, and found well over 150 people there, playing drums, dancing or just watching the festivities. Dreadlocks flew, young and old lovers twirled, a group of teenagers did a mock river dance, and a mother held her baby as she danced to the beats of the drums. Free music and an energetic, jovial crowd to appreciate it with? Sweet.
Saturday: The Grove Arcade
The weatherman was predicting rain, but so far the sky remained overcast. It was almost 11 a.m. when Liz and I decided to hit the Grove Arcade, an impressive, historic building and shopping plaza in the downtown area. Western North Carolina's largest commercial building at 269,000 square feet, the arcade opened in 1929 and was taken over in 1942 by the federal government, eventually becoming headquarters for the National Climatic Data Center. Reopened to the public in 2002, the Grove Arcade now contains numerous restaurants and shops selling a variety of goods from designer clothes to rare coins. Outside, gregarious street vendors sell T-shirts and trinkets.
As soon as we left the arcade, it started raining. I huddled under the roof of a parking garage waiting for my sister — the keeper of our umbrella — to emerge from an eccentric clothing and tchotchke store across the street. A balding man who appeared to be in his early 30s stopped next to me to have a cigarette before he darted into the rain. I asked him if he knew where a movie theater was. Not only did he never answer my question — he ranted about an Italian film he'd seen a decade ago and briefly mentioned Brokeback Mountain, which he'd really liked — but he ended our conversation by saying he thought all Asheville had to offer was the Biltmore. He said the art and the music and the food could be found anywhere else. I found his answer interesting but didn't take it to heart, seeing as he had only lived in Asheville for a year. I would have to be the judge.
Sunday: Biltmore Estate
Well, I had to agree with the ADD guy on one thing — Biltmore was incredibly awesome and it was my favorite part of the trip. My sister and I spent almost seven hours at the sprawling estate and we didn't even come close to taking advantage of all of its amenities.
George W. Vanderbilt commissioned Biltmore in the 1880s, with construction completed in 1895. The 255-room house takes up only a small part of the 8,000-acre property, which also includes numerous gardens, several dining establishments, a winery, a farm, an inn and hiking trails.
The grounds' five main gardens and conservatory cover more than 20 acres. Our timing was perfect; we'd arrived during Biltmore's annual Festival of Flowers. We saw many of the 1,000 varieties of azaleas in full bloom, but my favorite plant was the luscious, purple wisteria. As we strolled by the formal Italian garden we saw a bride-to-be posing in front of one of its three reflecting pools.
Next we toured the house. Holy moley. We didn't even see all 175,000 of its square feet because much of the mansion is being restored, but what we did see was intriguing. Of course I picked my favorite bedroom, the one I imagined staying in during my pretend visits. Visitors can take a self-guided audio tour for a fee, but we opted to use the informative pamphlet a staff member gave us at the door and it was just fine.
Our day ended with a trip to Biltmore's winery. The tickets came with a complimentary wine tasting that included eight different samplings — a relaxing way to end an exhausting yet breathtaking day.
Monday: Folk Art Center, Blue Ridge Parkway
My second favorite adventure in Asheville occurred on our last full day. We drove 12 miles north up the Blue Ridge Parkway to the Folk Art Center. The center houses the work of the Southern Highland Craft Guild, a group of talented artists who hail from nine Southeastern states and work with wood, glass, fiber, metal, paper and clay. Gallery exhibits include a collection of guild members' crafts dating back to the 1920s and rotating shows of contemporary work, and the center also houses the oldest craft library in the nation. Of course, there's a gift shop, too. Every guild member gets several opportunities each year to set up shop on the ground level of the center and display work to the public.
Our first trip to Asheville was a splendid experience. We didn't even begin to cover everything there is to do in our short visit (see sidebar for more info), but we'll be back. Next time we'll have to drive farther up the Blue Ridge Parkway; apparently we missed the waterfalls.
GETTING THERE
Asheville is approximately 10 hours 19 minutes driving time and 656.34 miles from St. Petersburg; 3 hours 22 minutes and 195.21 miles from Atlanta. Delta Airlines flies from Tampa to Asheville, with a layover in Atlanta and non-stop flight to Asheville.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Marriott Fairfield Inn & Suites (11 Rocky Ridge Road, Asheville, 828-665-4242, $119-$179). 10-minute drive to downtown.
Downtown Inn & Suites (120 Patton Ave., Asheville, $58.50-$65). Walking distance to downtown Asheville
Doubletree Hotel Biltmore/Asheville (115 Hendersonville Rd., Asheville, 828-274-1800, $199-$299). One block from Biltmore and walking distance to Biltmore Village .
BILTMORE
Ticket prices vary depending on the day and month. Until June 30, visitors receive $10 off gate admission if they purchase tickets online. (www.biltmore.com)
RESTAURANTS
Jerusalem Garden Café (78 Patton Ave., Asheville, 828-254-0255). Mediterranean cuisine. Recommended: Hummus, pita, tabouleh and falafel platter.
Kubo's (58 Biltmore Ave., Asheville, 828-251-1661, www.kubosjapanese-asheville.com). Japanese Fusion sushi bar and steak house. Recommended: Yellowtail jalapeno and Madonna roll (special.
Laughing Seed Café (40 Wall Street, Asheville, 828-252-3445, www.laughingseed.com). International vegetarian cuisine. Recommended: Divinity Portobello wrap, harmony bowl (organic brown rice, black beans, grilled tofu, steamed vegetables and ginger sauce).
Zambra (85 Walnut St., Asheville, 828-232-1060, www.zambratapas.com). Tapas and wine. Recommended: Mixed sautéed mushrooms with sweet potato wontons and edamame, grilled scallops with parsnip-potato gratin and smoked tomato sauce.
Mayfel's (22 College St., Asheville, 828-252-8840, www.mayfels.net). Louisiana-inspired fare with a country cookin' kick (also vegetarian-friendly). Recommended: Cornbread and pimento cheese griller, peanut Tofu with sweet potato fries, blackened chicken sandwich with jack cheese.
BARGAINS
Asheville Drum Circle. Free every Friday night at Pritchard Park in downtown Asheville.
Western North Carolina (WNC) Farmer's Market. Open seven days a week from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. on a 36-acre property that overlooks the surrounding mountains and Biltmore. Vendors sell fresh produce, rock candy, jams, jellies, preserves, honey, ice cream and crafts.
River Arts District (www.riverartsdistrict.com). A unique area of Asheville with over 100 different art studios.
Scenic drive up the Blue Ridge Parkway. Multiple lookout points with breathtaking photo ops.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Visitors can walk, bike, hike, fish or have a picnic at the most visited park in the national park system — for free.
Folk Art Center. Check out the Southern Highland Craft Guild's Appalachian region's inspired crafts. It is free and it is awesome. www.craftguild.org.
Malaprop's Bookstore/Café (www.malaprops.com). My law professor recommended I check out this neat, locally owned store. Even if you aren't in the market for a new book, drop by the store while you are downtown and grab a coffee — the place is extremely welcoming.
OTHER ATTRACTIONS
Black Mountain Center for the Arts (www.blackmountainarts.com)
Asheville Art Museum (www.ashevilleart.org)
Asheville Brews Cruise (www.brewscruise.com/asheville)
Asheville Historic Trolley Tour (www.ashevilletrolleytours.com)
Haunted Ghost Tours of Asheville (www.ashevilleghostandhaunt.com)
For more information about Asheville and to find out what suits you, visit www.exploreasheville.com.
This article appears in May 20-26, 2009.