BEST RAW FISH THAT’S NOT, TECHNICALLY, SUSHI

One of the latest efforts from SoHo impresario Tommy Ortiz, Cheap flies under the radar. Part hipster honky-tonk, part South Tampa watering hole, the Med-inspired small-plate menu seems to fade into the tattoo-inspired walls. Except for the crudo. Delicate slices of exquisite fish are dressed with flavored oils, like salmon with cardamom and almond, or hamachi with decadent truffle oil and toasted pine nuts. It’s essentially Italian sashimi with flavors far from the repertoire of most Asian-fusion joints that dabble in Western ingredients. All the rage for the past decade in the big cities, we’re happy this trend has finally found a home here in Tampa. 309 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, 813-258-5878. cheapinsoho.com