The Mill opened just a few short weeks ago, but chef Dorsey’s cuisine demonstrates a culinary mind in command of exciting juxtapositions of flavor. Scallops with curried cauliflower mash, rare tuna with ginger-carrot purée and radicchio marmalade, prosciutto and blackberry, frog’s legs and chili brown butter, and on and on. Best of all is (are?) The Naughty Bits: seared foie gras and sweetbreads atop dark and savory pork pomegranate molasses, accompanied by an anise-tinged blueberry corn muffin and a confit of soft scallions, fire-tamed until their brashness fades to become a malleable garnish for an inspired plate that’s one of the year’s best. But then, every plate at The Mill brings surprise to your taste buds and a carefully calibrated balance of exciting favors. It’s an adventure you never want to end.
