Last week, the revamped Fenway Hotel made its return during a private ribbon-cutting ceremony. The boutique property — originally opened in the 1920s with a musical heritage — is scheduled to premiere in stages at 453 Edgewater Drive over the coming weeks, starting with HEW Parlor & Chophouse.
The signature restaurant overlooking the resort-style pool kicked off its first dinner-only service Oct. 25, when CL chatted with executive chef Adam Hyatt before he got to cooking. After two years of interviewing, and patiently waiting, Hyatt now runs HEW’s kitchen, helping remake history at the Fenway.
For the uninitiated, the hotel is a collaboration between Tampa-based Mainsail Lodging & Development and the Taoist Tai Chi Society of the USA, which purchased the Fenway in 2014. The anticipated project, featuring 83 guest rooms and suites (not to mention a great view of St. Joseph Sound), is one of the most exciting that Dunedin has seen in decades.
HEW’s name pays homage to the original architect of the Fenway, Herman Everett Wendell, and so does a cocktail that calls for its extensive list of whiskey and Scotch. The Wendell is an elevated spin on the beloved Old Fashioned that solidifies a cherry in an ice sphere; the whole thing is then placed in a smoking box for 45 seconds.
But wait — there’s more. “Hew” is also a butchery term meaning to separate with a cleaver. As such, the restaurant specializes in chophouse cuts, alongside chef-driven seasonal items.
Hyatt was a little hesitant to name-drop some of the highlights.
“It’s like you’re making me choose between my children,” the chef said.
However, he did narrow it down after much deliberation: prime beef tomahawk for two. Both cuts are prepared in red wine demi glaze and topped with truffle butter and fried shallots.
“You definitely know you’re at a chophouse when a piece walks by you like that,” Hyatt said.
Consisting of house-made pasta, Maine lobster, chive oil and truffle foam, lobster agnolotti is another dish that’s been a hit during HEW practice runs.
Hyatt predicts the opening menu will serve as the restaurant’s longest-running bill of fare. After a few months into the launch, he hopes to switch up the selections every month, at the very least, playing on seasonality after patrons have determined the Fenway classics.
Prime seating is found at the 22-person chef’s counter surrounding the open kitchen, which is so close to the action that there’s no need for a server. In addition to the counter and two private dining areas, HEW can host a little over 60 guests.
More than anything, Hyatt believes the locals are looking forward to the also newly debuted Hi-Fi Rooftop Bar, which allows them to take in vistas of Caladesi and Honeymoon islands over specialty cocktails, wine and craft beers. Food (think small plates) is planned up there, too.
“The rooftop bar during sunset has been such a hotspot this last week, and I don’t see it slowing down,” he said. “The view is absolutely stunning.”
As of Oct. 29, HEW offers breakfast, weekend brunch, lunch, dinner and happy hour. The restaurant is taking online reservations exclusively through OpenTable, but phone reservations and accommodations for walk-ins will follow in the near future.
UPDATE, 11 a.m. Oct. 31: The Fenway has amended the business hours of HEW and Hi-Fi this weekend. On Saturday, Nov. 3, Hi-Fi is open 7:30 p.m. to midnight, and HEW operates 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. with breakfast, lunch and dinner; as for Sunday, Nov. 4, HEW is open 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. with breakfast, lunch and dinner, while HI-Fi operates 1 to 10 p.m.
