Rawk Star Cafe
3.5 out of 5 stars
740 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. Breakfast: $5-$8, plus add-ins ; lunch & dinner: $5-$13.50; desserts: $4-$9; smoothies & juices: $7-$10; beer, cider & wine: $5-$9. 727-440-6026. rawkstarcafestpete.com.
I am an unabashed omnivore. There are very few things in the world of gastronomy that, when done well, don’t make my heart flutter. While I worship in the gastronomic temples filled with foie gras, truffles and caviar, I’m equally at home with a good hot dog or even, horrors, a bowl of wobbly cherry Jell-O squares at Sweet Tomatoes.
As I’ve explored global cuisines and modernist techniques, I’ve learned lots about regional tastes, how great chefs layer flavors for maximum impact, and how quality ingredients are half the battle. Exciting tastes are everywhere if we’re open to new ideas and flavor-texture combos that we may not have experienced.
But what transpires when we narrow those choices? In a world that’s more aware of health and allergens, of pesticides and GMOs, what happens to the pure enjoyment of eating when the goal is to live in a 100-percent organic, GMO-free, gluten-free, corn-free, soy-free, dairy-free and — heaven forbid — raw world. What can possibly be left to provide flavor and decadent culinary pleasure in strictly vegan terms?
The answer, somewhat surprisingly for many, is quite a lot.
I should know this is true, because I’ve reviewed several vegan restaurants for CL and, without exception, been impressed with the results. Still, when my posse and I enter Rawk Star Cafe’s splendid, sleek new space on downtown St. Pete’s Central Avenue, I’m harboring a mild sense of dread.
The online menu speaks of seed mylk, eggless nut paste, and dehydrated flat “bread” made from seeds. This immediately sends up red flags for the uninitiated. Heck, even for me, and I’ve never had a bad vegan experience. It’s just the fear of the unfamiliar. But once we give way to the care and effort that goes into displaying this fresh, flavor-filled food, we’re completely enthralled.
The cafe’s main drink attractions are the smoothies. These shakes are delightfully refreshing and creamy, considering they’re dairy-less. The Orange Screamsicle blends hemp seed mylk, agave, mango, orange and goji berries. It has a thick, creamy texture and a pleasant, fruity taste belying its healthful origins. Likewise, one taster goes for the children’s Chocolate Monkey, a successful blend of Brazil nut mylk, butterscotch stevia, banana and cacao that’s sure to please any chocoholic. And the Powerhouse, based on Brazil nut mylk and protein, et cetera, carries the backbone of banana laced with mango.
As to food, rawghetti is a luscious dish of shredded zucchini and kelp “noodles” with fresh veggies in a hemp pesto sauce and a Prama (grated nut cheese) sprinkle. It’s very tasty, and while it won’t make you forget pasta, it’s a winning mashup that elicits raves from the table.
The Rawkster wrap loads a soft collard leaf with fresh mixed greens, cucumber, celery, carrots, tomato and red bell pepper — plus a nut pâté of pumpkin seeds, pecans, red pepper, apple and Mediterranean spices that’s simply fresh and delightful. Other wraps switch up the pâté choices, which are available to sample upon arrival to allay your fears and help you transition. There’s an eggless nut pâté made from macadamia and cashew nuts, turnip, turmeric, apple cider vinegar and lemon reminiscent of deviled eggs, or a chili version composed of walnuts, carrots, red bell pepper, jalapeno, cayenne and tomato. Each pâté can be combined with the aforementioned veggies to make a yummy wrap, depending on your favorite.
Perhaps the biggest surprise of our meal is the raw burger platter. Two seed patties comprised of sunflower seeds, shiitake mushroom, sun-dried tomatoes, green cabbage, zucchini, carrots and select herbs are served between dehydrated flat bread made with apple, flax seeds, coconut meat and basil. Add some tahini mustard, lettuce, sliced tomato and cucumber — then top it with crisp dehydrated onion rings — and you’ve got a wonderful dish. You don’t have the juicy mouthfeel that makes burgers so popular, but there’s flavor and texture to spare.
The raw pizza slice packs a lot of flavor into a healthy creation that combines tomato marinara with shredded zucchini, spinach and carrots, as well as a macadamia nut cheese that mimics mozzarella. Black olives and Prama sprinkle (à la Parmigiana-Reggiano) also sit atop the thin crust of dehydrated tomato, Italian herb, sunflower and flax seeds. If you forget the name and focus on the textures and flavors in each bite, you’ll be unexpectedly thrilled.
More successful than pretenders out there that produce less flavor despite more options, the Caesar salad swathes the bits of romaine in a mustardy dressing with cheeseless Prama sprinkle sans croutons. While the dish lacks the umami goodness from anchovies in a real Caesar, it’s far better than I anticipated.
Again, the cafe’s desserts are satisfying with proper expectations. La Caramel Turtles are more like dark chocolate “chunkies” than soft, gooey caramel confections, but they are sweet and adequate to the task. The pie selection on our visit is a layered chocolate and matcha affair with a smooth-textured cream filling largely from nuts. Although this sweet won’t make you forget decedent dairy creations, it’s a most pleasant way to end your visit.
The key to being a Rawk Star is to bring an open mind with your open mouth. Abandon all reference points, and focus on the evocative flavor and texture in the food before you. You’re in for pleasant plant-based surprise and an array of tasty treats. And if you’re already a vegan, it’s nirvana.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at [email protected].
