NuMex
3 out of 5 stars
2710 Central Ave., St. Petersburg. Appetizers: $4-$11; entrees: $9-$11; desserts: $6; wines by the glass: $5-$9. 727-592-4326, numexchile.com.
St. Petersburg’s ever-burgeoning Grand Central District dining scene has a new kid on the block with a very specific focus: chile-centric cuisine based on authentic flavors from traditional New Mexican dishes (as in the state, not our “bad hombre” neighbor to the south). NuMex is all based on Hatch chile peppers and promises to be “both innovative and reverent,” as owner Ray Smith aims to capture the spirit of the state’s vibrant street food.
There’s a stylish interior and a super fun grab-and-go window. The front glass walls open to bring the outside in, where the tables on the street double the restaurant’s capacity; it’s been very thoughtfully and delightfully designed.
Given the narrow focus, the menu is very selective. We opt for the Chips & Trio, featuring a big overflowing basket of fresh, crisp chips so that you may enjoy red and green salsas and the terrific three-cheese queso. Both salsas have plenty of kick and nuance. There’s an initial punch of chile, followed by a slow burn. Perception of heat is very subjective and individual. Our server describes the salsas as mild, but I’d put them squarely in the medium zone — there’s quite a long kick on the finish, particularly for the salsa verde. At first, it doesn’t seem like a lot of heat, but then it hits the back of your tongue and lingers. My wimpy taster simply digs for more of the queso — wonderfully lush, creamy and absolutely delicious. The whole table is in love with this cheese dip, which is quickly addictive.
I’m excited to see that NuMex does a green chile cheeseburger because I was lucky to have the fabled one in Santa Fe at the late, great Bobcat Bite. This was the much-acclaimed iconic burger that enticed foodies from around the globe to descend on the historic Old Las Vegas Highway on the outskirts of the city when visiting New Mexico. Sadly, the restaurant closed in 2013. But the tradition is alive at NuMex — and the (uncredited) tribute burger is tasty indeed. A fat patty of local grass-fed beef sits on a fresh kaiser roll topped with a Cheddar-Monterey Jack mix and a mound of uncontrollable green chiles. There’s also a side of lettuce, onion and salsa fresco to gild this Southwestern lily. As far as I’m concerned, the struggle to wrangle the handheld adds to the pleasure, but it’s not a burger for the fastidious among you.
The rustic, thick, hand-cut fries accompanying the burger remind me of the traditional chips I’ve grown to love in England. They’re not too salty, and they’re piping hot with creamy centers and a touch of crispness. The freshness of the potatoes plucked from the hot oil makes all the difference.
Enchiladas aren’t rolled, but rather presented as a stack of tortillas. The shredded chicken that stuffs the corn tortillas, along with the cheese mix, is moist and bursts with flavor. With or without the salsa, it’s simply terrific.
Then there’s that big ol’ bowl of Frito pie, which is essentially a beef burrito unchained. It’s as if the tortilla couldn’t contain the tornado of flavor and it exploded, picking up America’s favorite corn chips along the way and then depositing them whipped together for your eating pleasure. It’s great if you like extra crunch, and the serving is huge.
Every entree comes with pinto beans and posole, made from white corn hominy. The beans aren’t overly seasoned, and they retain their shape instead of morphing into the mush that often confronts you at many Mexican restaurants. Posole is a nice alternative to the ubiquitous rice usually served alongside beans. It’s got large, round grains and distinct starchiness that creates clumps. Each side allows diners to adjust how the chile heat dominates the entrees — or doesn’t — to balance flavors.
NuMex has a small, but apt, wine selection, plus beer on tap and red and white sangria that’s fruity and not too sweet. Much like I’ve preached about the palate enlivening contrast of off-dry riesling with spicy foods, sangria provides a similar balance with the abundance of spicy chiles on the menu. Rather than being cloying, the sweetness tempers the fire and makes you ready for another bite.
The best-looking plate of the night is the classic flan with a custard more creamy than dense — and a nice garnish of two sauces and fresh fruit. It coats your tongue and tames any lingering residual heat. Wonderful, complex raw wildflower honey squeeze bottles are included on the table, too, for that purpose. The product from Tampa Bay beekeeper John Morse, distributed through St. Pete-based Brick Street Farms, is first class.
Our other dessert choice is fresh berry empanadas, decidedly unsweetened. While the single, large, flat turnover is warm and crisp at the edges, it’s soggy in the center, which greatly reduces the appeal. This one arrives with the same garnishes as the flan, a choice that strikes me as odd. With only two desserts, why not switch it up a bit?
Still, NuMex dishes a pleasant meal if you crave chiles, and the tribute to Bobcat Bite alone is worth a visit.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at [email protected].
