Sparkman Wharf
615 Channelside Drive, Tampa. 813-345-5881, sparkmanwharf.com.
Last March I visited both The Hall on Franklin and Heights Public Market, Tampa’s foray into the world of gastronomic adaptive reuse. The trend to go all Rumpelstiltskin by spinning gold from underperforming real estate straw has now reached its zenith in the Channel District.
The concept? Unite a group of the city’s well-known chefs to create an outdoor food court made from a colorful mix of shipping containers. Bring enhanced flavors to affordable street eats next to the sprawling lawn of an outdoor waterside park. Include a beer garden with 30 taps focused on Florida’s finest craft brews, in addition to an outdoor stage for live music.
Voila. Sparkman Wharf.
Situated along the Garrison Channel, Sparkman Wharf is designed to celebrate the best of the region’s weather and waterfront. It’s named after Stephen Sparkman, the congressman who secured federal funding to dig the deep-water channels to create Port Tampa Bay.
The Wharf’s website reminds potential patrons that the space is reachable not only by Coast Bike Share or the free TECO Line Streetcar System (from Amalie Arena Station), but also on the Cross Bay Ferry. Who doesn’t wish to skip traffic hassles and enjoy a beautiful ride across the bay? With some advanced planning, you and the gang can enjoy the affordable fares and convenient departures of Provincetown III from downtown St. Pete. My posse goes with the most pedestrian option: We park at the Port Garage, which is just a 1,000-step round-trip on your Fitbit.
The open-air Fermented Reality Biergarten’s adjacent sweeping lawn is covered by cobalt blue umbrellas and plenty of seats to provide an intimate and comfortable space while you enjoy the view and wave goodbye to a Caribbean-bound cruise ship.
My dining companions and I wander among the 10 shipping-container restaurants in the dining garden. There’s so much to choose; it’s like throwing darts at a menu. We make our choices and gather to sample the mostly satisfying grub.
BT in a Box is another superlative feather in the toque of BT Nguyen, whose culinary Midas touch is also found at Restaurant BT, Bistro BT and BT To Go. Her Vietnamese crispy spring rolls are superb, but note that the accompanying sauce packs a kick on the finish.
Flock and Stock offers the Hugh Heifer burger’s proprietary beef blend — topped with melted aged Swiss, sweet bacon jam and sautéed ‘shrooms, plus a truffle oil finish, for a delightful mouthful.
The brainchild of Ty Rodriguez and chef Ferrell Alvarez of Rooster & the Till, Gallito Taqueria, produces yummy esquites (or street corn) off the cob, as well as great tacos. Pork belly pastor and carne asada are multilayered and superb.
Montados is a take on Spanish tapas and wine from Mise en Place partners Maryann Ferenc and chef Marty Blitz. The patatas bravas are made from split fingerlings, but they’re not crispy. The effort is tasty, if not authentic. What’s really terrific are the tostones with juicy pulled pork, salsa criolla, ají panca mojo, and avocado crema. This is perhaps my favorite bite of the night.
Chef Jeannie Pierola applies her culinary magic to fresh Florida catches and craft cocktails at edison’s swigamajig divebar and fishkitchen. Reveling in outdoor bohemian dining, it’s a no-frills seafood shack featuring a chalkboard menu that allows for ultimate flexibility based on the day’s bounty. The mixology team also flexes its muscles at will. We pick fish and chips made to order with an ethereal coating over beautiful chunks of white fish fillets. The chips (or hand-cut fries), which are soggy and overly salty, leave us disappointed.
Luckily, the fries at tide-to-table Boat Run Oyster Company are textbook perfect. They’re crispy on the outside with a soft creamy center. One of my tasters opts to sample the chowder fries, which are covered with a soupy mix of Yukon Gold potato chunks, thyme cream, smoked bacon, thyme oil and, of course, oysters. It’s an interesting combo, but next time I think I’ll enjoy each part separately. Certainly, this place is a must for oyster buffs, because the crew shucks bushels fresh from their Cedar Key beds.
STILL HUNGRY?
Here are even more shots of what CL experienced from photographer Chip Weiner
The Corners from Branden Lenz and Noel Cruz of Ichicoro features classic Detroit-style pizza, a huge square with thick crust and a crisp, cheesy bottom. Again, in order to not be blinded by toppings, we stick to classic red. I watch as the pizzeria ladles a chunky, thick marinara on top. For my group, there’s just too much bread, but you know what you like. Perhaps the White Spark with kale, mushrooms, ricotta and garlic would work better.
As we wind down, we’re looking for something sweet. Jason and Emily Smith’s Foundation Coffee Co. brings you superb cold brew and lattes, as well as exquisite desserts from the downtown St. Pete bakery of Cassis. We select a beautiful single-serve rectangle of carrot cake and aren’t disappointed.
A great way to finish your meal — or to satiate your sweet tooth — is to stop by Whatever Pops & Bowls. We try the thick, delicious chocolate shake and the memorable caramel gelato that has us seeking extra spoons. As for the signature acai bowl, it’s freshly blended and layered with granola, local honey, coconut flakes and your choice of two fruits.
All told, Sparkman Wharf gets it right. Regardless of what you crave, you’re sure to find something satisfying.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
This article appears in Jan 24-31, 2019.