Eddie V's Prime Seafood
4 out of 5 stars
4400 W. Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa. Appetizers: $11-$83; entrees: $26-$84; desserts: $9-$12; wines by the glass: $11-$24. 813-877-7290; eddiev.com.
Accessing the long line of upscale chain restaurants along Tampa's Boy Scout Boulevard is often daunting for the uninitiated. Usually there’s free valet or some self parking available along the parallel one-way service road. However, my good friend, Mr. Google, is being particularly mischievous on this night. I dutifully pull up as directed to Eddie V's Prime Seafood only to realize it's not accessible from the west side. The back entrance to a parking garage is blocked by a standing army of fluorescent orange traffic cones, deterring drivers with admirable efficiency. The solution is a circuitous return to Boy Scout to approach from the east.
As I pull my modest wheels under the valet canopy held up by a monogrammed fountain and hop out, it's impossible not to notice two late model Bentleys. One jet black, the other bright white — $400,000 worth of luxury to announce that Eddie V's clients are well-heeled and/or here for a special occasion.
Though there are 16 locations from Tampa to California, the franchise, which began in Austin, is now owned by Orlando's Darden Group. The Bay area location is indeed an elegant dining experience. From plush, neutral earth-tone decor to Deco-esqe sconces, fixtures and chandeliers, it's upscale all the way. The floor-to-ceiling glass wine cellar welcomes you as you enter. There's a bar with live jazz to the right, and comfortable booths or crisp white tablecloths to the left.
Soon after you settle at the table, a server arrives Casablanca-style in a white dinner jacket and black bow tie — garb that surprises by its old-fashioned sophistication. As your drink order makes its way to the bar, a tray arrives with thick slices of warm, open-crumb multigrain bread. Two small, rectangular white china containers of soft, creamy butter sprinkled with lines of chives and pink Himalayan salt are also there for your pleasure.
When our appetizers arrive, it's clear that, although the menu is traditional, the quality of ingredients is topnotch, and the kitchen is in complete control. Without exception, each dish is well-balanced, attractively plated and a joy to eat.
The beautiful, glistening round of diced tartare of Pacific ahi tuna sits on ripe, lush, seductive bits of mango. Avocado, mango and grapefruit slices intersect in three small piles with drizzles of curry and sesame oils. Three crisp, large triangular crackers strewn with dark and light sesame seeds prove the perfect vehicle to add crunch after you lift a bite to your lips. Everything goes together so well that you just want to sigh.
A square of chopped steak tartare touches corners with another of tiny diced chilled Maine lobster bits. There are shallots and avocado, truffles and Parmesan, chives and a stack of perfectly thin, buttered and toasted baguette slices. The bread is golden and crisp on the edges, but soft toward the center. Again, worth a sigh.
We're three for three with the marvelous lobster bisque. The essence of this famous crustacean is concentrated in a broth heightened by a splash of Cognac and enough cream to give it a texture like velvet. A small crunchy crouton spread with crème fraîche, topped with the tiniest bits of chive, makes for the ideal garnish.
Seamless service by the elegant staff, by the way, punctuates the entire meal. They are knowledgeable, friendly and anticipate your every need.
Seared Alaskan halibut is meant for an earthy miso broth floating with crisp, sweet sugar snap peas and shiitake mushrooms. Be on the lookout for thin slices of hot red pepper that dot the bowl, however, as they may surprise diners not expecting a fiery zing.
Grilled tail-on jumbo shrimp are stuffed "oreganata-style" with lump crab meat lightly mixed with fresh bread crumbs, garlic, butter and herbs to delicious effect. Every element is in sync, and the flavors meld into shellfish heaven.
Our last over-the-top entree is a perfect, thick-cut, dry-aged 8-ounce filet mignon and a huge, broiled cold-water lobster tail inverted for display on top of its shell. Drawn butter and a wrapped lemon accompany to tweak the lobster to taste. Oh, and, of course, there's a textbook béarnaise (an extra $4) tinged with tarragon. At $84 in the current market, it's a splurge to be sure, but a sublime version of quintessential surf and turf.
The meal finishes with a burst of fire — literally. A scrumptious bananas Foster butter cake is doused with flaming rum before our eyes. The blue flame pours from a silver sauce boat, engulfing the entire cake. While the alcohol burns, the flame turns yellow and finally dies. Our forks dig into the delicious combo, and we pick up bits of whipped cream and small-batch butter pecan ice cream, which flank the cake. Don't miss this one.
We also enjoy another one of Eddie's desserts: s'mores with a big square layer of dense dark chocolate sitting on a graham-cracker base with crushed toffee, topped with super-thick, creamy vanilla-bean marshmallow that's torched by the kitchen to campfire goodness.
As we exit, the Bentleys' owners haven't left. But I drive home in my humble chariot with a smile, knowing that my dinner was just as lavish as theirs. (Unless they splurged four figures on a profound wine from the award-wining cellar, that is.)
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
