The Indian Rocks/Belleair Beach/Redington area is a gently curving beach corridor that connects Clearwater Beach to the north with Treasure Island and St. Pete Beach to the south. Subdivided into several unique communities, there's more to this area than hotels and tourists — though the latter can be said to be the lifeblood of the businesses.
Indian Rocks Beach serves as a central hub for this string of neighborhoods, with the largest cluster of bars, restaurants and businesses concentrated here. This is partially because of geography: a significant stretch of Gulf Boulevard is situated on a narrow strip of land running through these neighborhoods, which doesn't allow for much development. But a lack of businesses can also be by design, which is the case in Belleair Beach, an entirely residential community just south of Clearwater Beach that does not allow commercial development.
When hungry in the morning, the locals (and repeat tourists) know to hit up Indian Rocks Beach's renowned Lighthouse Donuts for their coffee and bear claw (CL Food Editor Brian Ries loves them). Lunch and dinner offer a wealth of options, including seafood (Crabby Bill's, Guppys, Lobster Pot, etc.), steaks (Brewmasters) and American pub food (Red Lion). Add some incredible ice cream from Pinky's (see sidebar) for dessert and you'll be ready to beach yourself orca-style on one of the beautiful nearby dunes for some serious sugar coma-induced sunbathing.
FOOD & DRINK
1. Brewmasters Steakhouse 401 Second St., Indian Rocks Beach, 727-595-2900, brewmastersonline.com. If the idea of a bottomless glass of cheap brewski appeals to you as much as it does to us, look no further: Brewmaster's is home to the Magic Glass, the often-sought, rarely found free refill on house wines and draft beer (and a mighty fine fried lobster tail, too). You'll also find giant portions of steak, potatoes, seafood and ribs.
2. Crabby Bill's 401 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks, 727-595-4825. Yeah, it's a chain, but that doesn't distract from the ambiance of this original location, with its rough-hewn, colorful outdoor picnic tables on a big, sandy patio, where you can belly up to the bar and take in the tunes of various sleepy beach bands. Plus, they're open 'til 2 a.m. every night of the week, so if you ever crave crab legs at 11 p.m., you've got a place to go. They've also got indoor seating, but why would you want to do that?
3. Friendly Tavern 18121 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores, 727-393-4470. Beach bum meets karaoke idol (cheap drinks mean a longer line for the mic). Serviceable bar food favorites like chili, burgers, wings and fish sandwiches.
4. Guppy's On the Beach 1701 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks, 727-593-2032, 3bestchefs.com/guppys. Fresh seafood, a laid-back vibe, moderate prices (especially at lunchtime) and the industry cred of owner Eugen Fuhrmann (founder of The Lobster Pot and Mystic Fish) means Guppy's is the most popular — and packed — place on the beach.
5. Lighthouse Donuts 215 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach, 727-517-8722, facebook.com/lighthouse-donuts. CL food critic Brian Ries said it best: "The pillowy-soft texture is nigh perfect… the cake-style donuts are even better. They look, and taste, loved. You'll love 'em when you eat them, too." They've even got great coffee. Sit inside the historic home that now houses the bakery, soak up sun on the outdoor patio, or drive-thru for a quick donut fix.
6. The Lobster Pot 17814 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores, 727-391-8592, lobsterpotrestaurant.com. The final word in Redington Beach fine dining, this tried-and-true seafood spot hasn't changed much since its inception in 1978 (though ownership has). Expect impeccable service and seafood — much of it flown in fresh daily from around the world.
7. Mahuffer 19201 Gulf Blvd., Indian Shores, 727-596-0226, mahuffer.com. In keeping with its Key West vibe (decorated with dingy bras and all), Mahuffer's motto is "Warm Beer, Lousy Food, Wurst Place on the Beach. If You Don't Like It, Hit the Bricks!" What it lacks in tact it more than makes up for in authenticity. You'll find live blues music and colorful patrons, but one thing you won't find is Budweiser — they proudly don't serve it, so don't ask.
8. Pinky's Ice Cream and Candy Shop 1401 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach, 727-517-7656. See "The sweets life," above right.
9. The Pub 20025 Gulf Blvd., Indian Shores, 727-595-3172, thepubwaterfrontrestaurant.com. Featuring a beautiful dockside dining area, The Pub is the perfect spot to get your eat on while taking in breathtaking views of the Gulf. Inside, 14 new TVs keep the sports pumping and a hardwood dance floor keeps the decidedly older crowd swaying to the hits of yesteryear.
10. Red Lion 1407 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks, 727-596-5411. It looks like an Americanized British pub — red telephone booth on the front deck and all — and in this case, looks aren't deceiving. The only surprise is the Floridiana fare (they're still on the beach, after all). So while the tourists jam up kitschy, tropically themed locales, head to the Red Lion for a relaxing beachside brew.
11. Salt Rock Grill 19325 Gulf Blvd., Indian Shores, 727-593-7625, saltrockgrill.com. Rustic flavors, upscale dining. Of course, their wood-grill makes everything better, from lobster to pork tenderloin. Floor-to-ceiling windows mean that even indoor dining is akin to eating waterside (minus all the pesky sand).
POINTS OF INTEREST
12. Beach Art Center 1515 Bay Palm Blvd., Indian Rocks, 727-596-4331, beachartcenter.org. This one-stop art shop has it all: Indian Rocks' biggest art fest (the annual Beauty and the Beach fine arts show and Chalkwalk); student, faculty and member exhibits; and classes in everything from watercolor, plein air painting and photography to Oriental brush painting).
13. Indian Rocks Beach Historical Society & Museum 203 Fourth Ave., Indian Rocks, 727-593-3861, indian-rocks-beach.com/historical_society. Learn all there is to know about Indian Rocks' history and foundation at this charming renovated beach cottage, which houses old photographs, maps, shells, documents and historic memorabilia.
14. Suncoast Seabird Sanctuary 18328 Gulf Blvd., Indian Shores, 727-391-6211, seabirdsanctuary.com. The largest and most successful avian hospital and haven in the U.S., the sanctuary houses injured birds who are eventually released back into the wild. In the meantime, you can get up close and personal with these Florida fliers, from tiny songbirds to powerful birds of prey.
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This article appears in May 13-19, 2010.