The distinctiveness does not come solely from it being a Buddhist temple in Florida, as there are larger or equally notable temples in the state like Wat (a general term for temple in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia) Buddharangsi of Miami. It is also far from the only place in Tampa Bay to enjoy quality Thai food or enjoy a leisurely brunch by the river. But few places in Florida combine all of these traits. What makes Wat Tampa special among Buddhist temples in Florida and around the entire United States is how it has integrated itself into Tampa as a beloved part of the community and as a place for hundreds of people of all backgrounds each week to relax, eat, and learn about Buddhism at the Temple’s beloved Sunday market.
To understand Wat Tampa, you need an understanding of its three names and identities: Wat Mongkolratanarm, Wat Tampa, and the Sunday Market. The first name is its official name, Wat Mongkolratanaram. This name is admittedly a bit hard for English-speakers, but it reflects the fact that the temple began and remains a place for Tampa’s Thai Buddhist community to worship and gather. What is not a series of buildings began modestly as a house (whose porch now hosts the many Sunday Market vendors) for Thai Buddhists and some non-Asian Americans who were mostly married to Thais, like Tom, a volunteer at the Temple’s weekly Question-and-Answer session during my visit.
Wat Mongkolratanarm was actually sponsored by the Thai monarchy, a fact reflected by the current mourning period at the Temple over the recent death of Thailand’s beloved King Bhumibol, who reigned for 70 years. Many elements of the complex show the influence of Thai religion and culture. The Temple building, finished in 2007, would not be out of place in Bangkok with its four triangular gold-leafed roofs, golden statues of the Buddha within (Thais love gold in their architecture), and even a central tree with dollar donations attached to the branches. Wat Mongkolratanarm is part of the branch of Buddhism dominant in Southeast Asia known as Theravadan Buddhism and its focus on monasticism can be seen in its three resident monks, though the number living there fluctuates quite a bit. The Sunday mediation service at the Temple is performed solely in Pali, the sacred language of Theravadan Buddhism. As Tom noted, the links between Thailand and the Temple are so close that sometimes he asks — even after attending since the 1980s — “Is this Buddhist or is this Thai?”
The great majority of the visitors to the Temple would not call it Wat Mongkolratanarm, but use its more casual nickname, Wat Tampa. While the temple building at Wat Tampa is admittedly not nearly as popular as the much-loved food market, a steady stream of curious visitors still enter on Sunday, some of whom admittedly do not follow the signs against wearing shorts or sleeveless shirts. Once inside, some talk to the aforementioned volunteer about the temple and Buddhism, others may look at booklets titled “Good Questions, Good Answers” about Buddhist basics, and others quietly meditate. The prominence of Wat Tampa has made it a location of note for newcomers to Buddhism, though finding entry into the community is not necessarily easy. For example, some students in my World Religions class who have visited the structure lament that the Pali language meditation service is difficult to fully comprehend.
For the wider Tampa community, the main appeal of Wat Tampa is admittedly not to the spirit but to the stomach. The food market has been a part of the Temple complex since the 1980s, though it has greatly expanded over the years. At the market, you can find a variety of Thai delights. Some are popular favorites like Pad Thai, curries, dumplings, spring rolls, and the food whose stand is the most crowded at the market, noodle soup. But there are also less-known items, with Thai fruits and desserts like the custard dish Sang Ka Ya and the steamed banana cake Khanom Kluay. A number of the sellers have been working at the market for many years; one lady I spoke selling spring rolls was there for 10 years, while the busy woman serving noodles said she started twenty-five years ago when she was in high school. Visitors then bring their food to the tables overlooking the river and enjoy a picturesque feast.
Regardless of the name used, Wat Tampa is a much-appreciated local landmark that's introduced Thai and Buddhist food (and beliefs) to many in Tampa Bay. The volunteers and workers at Wat Tampa take pride in how the complex has grown and serves to bring the community together. Tom shared the following story about how the temple brings out the best in people. One day, a visitor came by wearing an obscene T-shirt. Another volunteer politely told the man that he couldn’t wear the shirt inside the temple. Tom was afraid that the man would make a scene, but he came back fifteen minutes later wearing a new shirt and quietly reentered. Tom then smiled and said that there is just “something in the air” at Wat Tampa.
This article appears in Dec 14-21, 2017.