The first forkful takes you by surprise. The slippery texture of the glass noodles is so lush as to be erotic. The stir fry flavors are perfectly balanced; a hint of spice from julienned red bell pepper, char from scallions, earthy bite from marinated shiitakes, some herbal spinach notes and the sweet crunch of carrots. The tamari-sesame sauce clings to and mellows each morsel. There’s harmony and joy even without the welcome addition of a sunny egg yolk that stares back from the center of your plate. This is Chef Noel Cruz’s triumphant japchae. eatgangchu.com

This article appears in Sep 30 – Oct 5, 2022.

Jon Palmer Claridge—Tampa Bay's longest running, and perhaps last anonymous, food critic—has spent his life following two enduring passions, theatre and fine dining. He trained as a theatre professional...