Even before I had any idea that I might become a food critic, I was curious about fine dining. I was young with limited funds, so I turned to Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” and began a multi-decade obsession. Before too long my discretionary funds increased and Michelin star meals became possible; I was lucky to be able to travel to the world’s great vineyards and eat at dozens of starred restaurants over the years. After a decade as CL’s food critic, I knew the region had plenty of great food, but that diners generally embraced casual dishes, so that Michelin stars were doubtful. The inaugural guide last year followed my instincts, but this year Koya, Lilac, and Rocca entered the realm of stars and many worthy Tampa chefs got a nod in the guide. Michelin is still the ultimate culinary imprimatur and Tampa has arrived.
This article appears in Best of The Bay 2023.
