When the pilgrims toiled to make lives in what would become America, they did what folks sorely in need of a drink do: they made hooch with whatever was handy. And with transplanted apple trees doing nicely on this newly discovered continent, it wasn’t long before they were hitting the hard cider. Naturally, some folks wanted something with a bit more oompf, so they began distilling the fruit and applejack was the result.

Now don’t let the name fool you. Applejack isn’t some apple Schnapps-like treacle. This is brandy made from apples. So naturally it tastes of apples, but is dry and complex.

With Thanksgiving and nippier weather (at least for Florida) around the corner, few tastes give me that autumnal feeling than cocktails made with applejack.

After a long period out of favor, artisanal distillers are producing applejacks, but these can still be tough to find unless you’re enough of a spirits geek to hunt them down – mostly online. Laird & Company, the nation’s first federally licensed distillery, is really the only widely available brand. And it’s very good. It runs about $25 a bottle.

Applejack is a very versatile cocktail ingredient. It swaps out easily with most any drinks calling for bourbon or rye, and it plays nice with other spirits, juices and spices – especially maple syrup, cinnamon and the tangy pomegranate taste of grenadine.