The first time I visited a Largo restaurant years ago, it was busy with customers, but it looked passé: Swathed in pink and cream, its drab carpet and dated décor imitated an indoor garden, complete with fake plants climbing "trellises." Its name was George Pappas' Restaurant, and its solid fare and long success reflected the Greek heritage of its owners, with specialties like moussaka, gyros and Greek salad.
The next time I visited, a four-month renovation had rendered it nearly unrecognizable: chic, modern and clean design. The food was still good, with a few dishes betraying its former ethnic slant, but the rest thoroughly modern, leaning to wraps, exotic salads, spiffy pasta and Asian-inspired dishes. Its new name was Pappas' Grillmarks Bistro & Bar, and its new owner was Nick Pappas, son of the original owner.
On my most recent visit, the restaurant had changed only minimally. I had always liked it, even with the trellises, but my opinion crystallized mid-meal when I stepped out to the parking lot for a moment and was accosted by two hungry ladies. It seemed they were celebrating a birthday and asked bluntly: "Is the food here any good?"
I didn't even have to think: It was an instant "thumbs up." I had already concluded that, although Grillmarks' New American fare was a little uneven during one visit, it was pretty close to perfect on the second, reasonably priced, fresh, imaginative and carefully prepared. The service was as friendly and efficient as it always had been.
Step into the little foyer and you find a curvaceous, modern fainting couch, apparently in case you're overcome with hunger. The hardwood floor is polished to a deep sheen, the interior sleek in simple beige and black. During the day, it's pleasantly sunny as generous windows flank its front and side walls.
Start with one of the popular cocktails, like the watermelon martini ($6), DeKuyper Watermelon Pucker spiked with Bacardi and sours, with a jaunty Jolly Rancher wedged at the bottom of the glass for fun. Or try a selection from the fine, 50-item wine list.
As an appetizer, we ordered peanut satay, grilled chicken and steak skewered and accompanied by an Asian peanut dipping sauce ($7). It looked pretty and the meat benefited from a lively hot-chili- pepper sauce that gave it real spark. But the dipping sauce, set in a cup by itself, needed a strong kick of fresh ginger or garlic, plus its texture was too thick for easy dipping.
The Asian pot-sticker appetizer was better ($6). Crispy fried or steamed dumplings stuffed with pork and Asian vegetables in a terrific ginger-teriyaki dipping sauce that was just scrumptious. I also recommend the portobello tower ($7.50), mushrooms stacked with roasted red peppers, grilled eggplant, feta and drizzled with basil-infused olive oil and a frisky red pepper coulis that animated the flavor of the veggies.
The soups were a mixed bag, one a forgettable smoked chicken and corn chowder ($3.50), and the other a knock-out baked French onion soup ($4), its broth assertive and its top-knot heavy with herb-toasted croutons, gooey provolone and fried onion rings. It was fat, hearty and served with a delectably crusty French boule. My companion had trouble finishing it.
Another night, I sampled the ethnic echo from the restaurant's previous incarnation, a traditional gyro ($7 dinner/$6.50 lunch), made with slow-roasted lamb, lettuce, tomatoes, feta and cucumber-garlic tzatiziki on grilled pita. It was loaded with feta, purple onions and meat, piled high with a side of oregano fries, and hearty enough for any big eater.
The lavish salmon salad ($9.50 dinner/ $9 lunch) contained two squares of deep pink salmon, dusted with green herbs in a huge bowl with fresh field greens, roasted red and yellow peppers, crisp cucumbers, toasted pine nuts and feta. I enjoyed both the salad and its lavish douse of homemade raspberry vinaigrette dressing — but counted it as an error because I had ordered dressing on the side.
My companion ordered mignon cooked medium (6-ounce, $17.50 dinner/$14 lunch; 10-ounce, $22), seasoned and kissed by the oak-fire grill, then ladled with red wine-shallot demiglaze. It arrived bloody and definitely rare, so we sent it back for another go on the grill. When it came back, it was fine, accompanied by honey mashed sweet potatoes and a fetching pile of crisp asparagus spears.
I was surprised to experience two notable errors in a row, as Pappas' restaurant ordinarily runs with an efficiency that U.S. Central Command might envy. However, no such errors plagued my second visit: I again ordered a salad with dressing on the side — it came just that way; and another filet mignon, this time medium-rare, and it was perfect.
In the kitchen is Executive Chef Sean Scudder, 28, formerly of New York and San Francisco, whose résumé includes trendy spas, such as Lafayette Park Hotel, Clairmont Resort & Spa and the Orinda Country Club. His specialty is fresh seafood, and his sea bass and salmon specialties are now the restaurant's best sellers according to owner Nick Pappas. Also part of the team is Brian Williams, general manager and wine buff; Bill Sweeney, sous-chef; and Jackie Buda, baker.
After dinner, I ordered decaf coffee ($1.79) and Key lime pie ($4.70), while my companion drank water and nibbled espresso-flavor creme brulée ($4.70). Both were respectable, although the pie's crust was limp (one of my pet peeves). Demerit: I was billed twice for the coffee.
Still, I unequivocally stand by my original answer to the question: "Is the food here any good?" with another big thumbs up. Grillmarks is one of my favorites.
Food Editor Sara Kennedy dines anonymously, and Weekly Planet pays for her meals. She can be reached at sara.kennedy@weeklyplanet.com or 813-248-8888 ext. 116.
This article appears in Aug 7-13, 2003.