Once hidden behind kitchen doors, chefs have emerged as the new celebrities, jetting about the country for book singings and personal appearances, dishing out food industry gossip or Bam!-ing their way into TV sitcoms. Ah, what a splendid life it must be, up to your elbows in foie gras and caviar every night, hobnobbing with Julia Child and Martha Stewart every day. Think of the fabulous meals they eat, the rare and exotic wines they drink. Get back in the plane, Tattoo. It's time to fly away from Fantasy Island and take a dip in reality. The truth is, most chefs — even chefs in big, fancy restaurants — work harder, longer and under harsher conditions than your average prison inmate. And get less time off for good behavior. Great meals? Just like you, they tire of their own cooking, so after a night of preparing fancy fusion or French cuisine, their own dinner is usually something simple, such as scrambled eggs and toast. And where do they dine on days off? I asked some of our best local talent just that.
Chef Jeannie Pierola, who thrilled us by turning SideBern's in Hyde Park, Tampa, into one of the most exciting restaurants in Tampa Bay, says, "The restaurant business doesn't allow for a normal lifestyle. Time off is limited to off nights for the restaurants, late Sundays and early Mondays, the same time most independent restaurants are closed, so I don't have the luxury of asking what I'm in the mood to eat, but rather, where and what can I get? Now, if there is not a new restaurant I'm waiting to try, because I do believe as a consumer it is our civic duty to try every new restaurant that opens. I revert back to my flavor memories, reflecting on the flavors that have most satisfied me, and that begins the process of finding something to eat. When you asked me about my favorite place or places to eat, I knew exactly what I had to do. Prepare the list I have been building throughout a lifetime of eating. I thought I would limit it to a 50-mile radius for convenience.
"Not in any particular order, here are my favorite things to eat: all-the-way cheeseburgers and ice-cold drafts at Duffy's Tavern in Holmes Beach; finger-sucking barbecue from Hickory Hollow in Ellenton (but you really go there for the daily vegetables offered on the pig board); anything fried at the original Crab Trap in Terra Ceia; Sean Murphy's bouillabaisse at the Beach Bistro in Holmes Beach, especially the leftovers reheated the next day. I have actually ordered a whole order just to take home and reheat the next day.
"For more Asian inspiration, the rare lime beef salad at Cafe BT and the Thai crepe at Sunee blow me away every time I have them. And for more Italian flair, the "priest chokers" at Spartaco's, with, get this, lump crab, chopped clams, tomato sauce and a little crushed chili flakes. Unbelievable! The made-from-scratch every time you order it risotto from Donatello's, so perfect, so simple, so delicate. Lastly, the Wednesday meatloaf lunch special at Malio's. Why? It makes me remember the flavor of my grandmother's meatloaf and there is nothing better than a new flavor memory reminding you of an old one."
Chef Ralph Sitero, at the Ashley Street Grille, Tampa, has a taste that runs from lobster roasted with truffles to great barbecue. He laughs when I ask him where he eats on a night out. "Honest, my chance to eat out is very limited unless I travel or it's a special occasion. Then I go all out! No expense spared! I usually head for Saigon Palace on Waters Avenue in Tampa for Asian. Nothin' in the decor department but it is very authentic. Pho is the finest I've tried. If I'm in the mood for steak, I head to Cody's, best value as you well know. For pizza, G. Bellini's in Clearwater. Damn close to the real deal in Italy. Sushi — you're gonna laugh — the all-you-can-eat Crazy Buffet on Dale Mabry. Marty Blitz from Mise En Place took me there. I'm a big fan now!
"My wife and I celebrated our anniversary at Chateau France in St. Pete. It was fantastic! Foie gras and veal were outstanding. Imagine, haute cuisine in Tampa Bay! Mostly, because it's a rare treat, I like to dine at home. Really. I usually invite friends over to sample fine wine and I try to complement the wine by whipping up something eatable. Ken Collura, the head sommelier from Bern's, and our good friend Dina Kutchkuda, are regulars. We go to each other's houses (I do a lot of the cooking). Ken's wine selections are impeccable of course. Although I wish I dined out more, I truly love entertaining at home."
Chef Roger Lenzi, along with his wife, Terry Lenzi, owners of the award-winning New City Diner on North Himes Avenue in Tampa, echo Jeannie Pierola and Ralph Sitero when Roger says, "Usually, the only chance we have to eat out is on Sunday or Monday night, exactly when all the other independents are closed, so we don't have the luxury of going around trying all the best places. Anyway, by the time I get a day off, I usually want something pretty simple, like Marty Blitz and I will go out for submarine sandwiches. But here's what eating is really like for us, most times. Yesterday morning, I had sausage gravy and biscuits at the diner. That's all I ate until we closed up, many hours later, when the whole kitchen staff went over to Crystal Burger. We were sitting around, at 2 in the morning, laughing about what people would say if they knew this is how chefs actually eat. Yeah. It's a glamorous life!"
A change in menu. My dears, after four years, and two journalism awards as Weekly Planet's queen of cuisine, I'll be leaving soon to pursue my own business, creating print, radio and TV ad campaigns and promotions for restaurants and the food service industry. This means Weekly Planet is looking for someone with a healthy appetite for dishing up news on Tampa Bay's incredibly active dining scene. Imagine the new restaurant critic could be YOU! Details on how to apply are contained in an ad in this issue.
This article appears in Jul 19-25, 2001.
