Barbecue is an American pastime, still the purview of homemade smokers and patented techniques that vary from backyard to backyard. And because smoked meat is more art than science — with as many styles and variations as there are Big Green Eggs — it's often difficult to translate the glory of barbecue into a restaurant environment. People know what they like, and everyone likes something different.
Smokin’ J’s in Gulfport, and Holy Hog in Tampa — both newish to the restaurant scene — serve pork, beef, chicken and the usual sides, but to a smoked meat fan their styles are separated by more than just bridges and the Bay.
Smokin’ J’s began as many barbecue joints do, with a mobile smoker parked by the side of the road. The owners started out as hobbyists, taking their backyard secrets to competitions around the country. When they moved from Dallas to Pinellas, they set up shop in the parking lot of a gas station in South Pasadena, dishing up their Texas-style ’cue to drive-up traffic. Soon enough however, they found a more permanent home.
This article appears in Sep 23-29, 2010.