As we established back in March’s column, while there are 1,368 varietals, the big three white grapes are Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. That said, there are at least six more that I’d like to touch on to expand your drinking palate.
Albariño (Al-ba-REEN-yo) could be called Spain’s answer to Viognier (see below). Peaches, spice and nuts are the most common descriptors. It’s often compared to Riesling (one of the big three) in style. In addition to the octopus match discussed online in the overview of Victoria & Albert’s pairings last week, this wine is a great match for shellfish plus spicy and/or grilled seafood preparations. It’s showing up on more and more wine lists, so try a glass or pick up a bottle the next time you throw fresh fish on the grill.
Chenin Blanc is best known for the Vouvray wines from France’s Loire Valley. It’s been referred to as the Jekyll and Hyde of white wine grapes because, while it’s often hard to ripen, it can be made into a range of styles from dry, semisweet or sweet. The best wines are lightly floral and taste of apples, quince or melons. Cheaper versions are vaguely fruity; the better versions are complex, light to medium bodied with crisp acidity. This makes Chenin Blanc a great match for sautéed fish, especially with lemon or a cream sauce. Off-dry (winespeak for sweet, remember?) versions are generally good matches for Chinese cuisine or with fruit and cheese.
Gewürztraminer from Alsace is medium bodied and very aromatic with tropical fruits and perfumed flower flavors. It’s great with spicy Asian food (Hunan, Thai), Indian curries, smoked cheese (gouda, mozzarella), or strong, aged soft cheeses like Camembert, Epoisses, and Muenster. If you haven’t tried it, you owe it to yourself to grab a glass — plus, it’s really fun to pronounce. Say it with me: “guh-VERTZ-trah-MEE-ner.” Now, let’s drink some.
Pinot Grigio has enjoyed a great deal of recent popularity. The northern Italian bottlings are light to medium bodied and meant to be drunk young. Pinot Gris (same grape, slightly different name) from the western U.S. is usually fuller bodied. Pair it with light fish dishes, which seem to take on more flavor when matched with equally delicate white wines. It also pairs well with antipasto, most chicken dishes, roasted pork and pasta prepared with seafood or shellfish. The grape also has an affinity for tarragon and thyme, so you may want to add those herbs to your dish as a bridge to enhancing your wine match.
Semillon (sem-ih-YON) is best known for the late harvest dessert wines from Sauternes (or the adjacent Barsac district). The grapes hang on the vine until a mold called Botrytis cinerea (noble rot) shrivels the grapes and concentrates the sugars. If you get a chance to experience a Château d’Yquem with Roquefort cheese you will know what a perfect match is all about. Also look for Château Guiraud, Ch. Rieussec, or Ch. Suduiraut; these are expensive wines but available in 375 millimeter half-bottles, and a little of this rich wine goes a long way.
Viognier (vee-own-YAY) is a richly perfumed and honeyed grape most notably from the Condrieu region of France’s Rhone Valley. The heady fragrance and the peachy, dried apricot flavors combined with a rich, almost oily texture have given this grape newfound popularity. California is now also producing Viogniers of note. Because it also has good acidity, it works well with butter or cream sauces, roasted pork, lobster, or especially roasted nuts.
These six white grapes will expand your palate beyond the big three. Make a point of trying something new to you; you’ll be glad you did. So promise me you’ll explore some new white wines and next month we’ll check out some more exciting red grapes.
This article appears in Oct 31 – Nov 6, 2013.