3.5 out of 5 stars
516 S. Howard Ave., Tampa
813-213-0100; luvchildsoho.com
Appetizers: $5-$14; entrees: $8-$14; desserts: $6; beer/wine/cocktails: $4-$14
Nothing says the 70s at Luv Child like a pair of giant mirror balls.
The clever folks at the Ciccio Restaurant Group (Fresh Kitchen, Green Lemon, Taco Dirty, Forbici) are on a roll. The newest entry is a pulse-quickening space that immediately announces that this isn’t your typical neighborhood taco joint. When you enter from the spacious covered patio, there’s a colorful leafy mural up the high, down-lit rustic white brick for great visual texture and a mod raised communal table circled by tufted high back white leather stools that wrap around diners. The edges are lined with hundreds of round top silver upholstery tacks that snake around the top and sides of the chairs. And in the middle is a faux metallic coconut palm tree rising to the ceiling. It’s disco, baby!
A frozen lime margarita announces itself with a big blue oversized straw that makes slurping up the delicious concoction more fun. In fact, the whole cocktail list is playful. We settle on the refreshing Republic of Cu-cumber which combines organic cucumber vodka with St. Germain elderflower liqueur brightened with muddled cucumber and fresh lime juice. It’s simply delish.
There’s also a Cubano twist with frozen mojitos and a Havana Happy Hour every day except for Taco Tuesday. Executive chef Luis Flores‘s menu has brunch every day till 3:00 and is built around share plates (crafted from the highest quality ingredients) that emerge from the kitchen tapas-style as they are ready.
We start with a plate of crispy Brussels sprouts—the previously wallflower veggie that now is on everybody’s Homecoming Court. These are nicely caramelized and, if you want to add a little heat, there’s a pot of Cuban sriracha for your pleasure. More unusual is a twist on nachos that piles a colorful mix of chips on a hot fajita platter all slathered with an amalgam of mushrooms, jalapeño, bell peppers, salsa, Parmesan cheese, white cheddar, aji verde sauce and just enough truffle oil to make diners drool. Truffle oil is powerful and has become a popular addition to fries, but this is the first time I’ve encountered it on nachos. My table is inspired.
We try the Big Papi sandwich which hits a home run with crispy, moist mojo pork layered with caramelized onion, yellow bell pepper, garlic aioli, and poblano queso. Our fried plantains side celebrates obliquely cut chunks that are crispy on the outside but yield to the soft sweet creamy centers of your dreams.
Even better and surprising is the Make Your Own paratha. Instead of tortillas, Chef Flores surprises with Indian pan-fried flatbread that is thicker and moister than its Mexican cousin. What’s grand is the giant divided tray with compartments of fresh condiments. Our protein duo—shredded aji verde chicken and grilled steak, is simply yummy. In the center is an avocado-based housemade Luv sauce circled by julienned pickled onion, a pot of rojo salsa, and a flavorful dice of cilantro, onion, and jalapeño that adds the perfect pop.
There’s no dessert menu, but the current choice is churros and/or flan. We just jump on the custard. It’s not individually molded in a ramekin, but rather cut as an ample rectangular slab from a larger pan, which is less elegant, but still tasty with an adequate pool of burnt caramel.
Luv Child is another feather in the Ciccio cap. The service is friendly and attentive and as one Yelper proclaims, “it’s a breath of fresh air from the trashy packed bars in SoHo.” I couldn’t agree more.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Tampa Bay’s 50 best restaurants of 2019, according to the area’s longest running food critic Jon Palmer Claridge. Check out the explanation of his rating system. His recent published book, 'Drink.More.Wine!', can be found here.
UPDATED 1/9/20 to reflect that Jeff Gigante is not an active member of the Luv Child restaurant.
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This article appears in Jan 9-16, 2020.