There's something so solid and reassuring about an old hotel, especially one like the Don CeSar Beach Resort & Spa, the elegant pink lady still decked out in her 1928 finery and perched like a dowager queen along the smooth curve of St. Pete Beach. Her Belgian stucco walls and graceful towers have weathered countless gales; her gracious countenance has blessed tens of thousands of parties, weddings and honeymoons.
Over decades, she has triumphed over war, depression and the changing tides of human events. She even survived a stint during World War II as a military hospital, her fabulous Italian marble and cut-glass chandeliers miraculously preserved. I think of her in her Shocking Pinkness as a metaphor for the resilience of the human spirit.
Maybe that's why, near the holidays, I want to visit her, to stand atop the turrets and gaze out at the long stretch of sand like an ivory train at her feet, the mist wrapping the distant gulf in translucent mystery. She represents the unbroken links that tie us all together, from the starving immigrant laborers who built her so long ago to the petulant rock star with the nose ring who occupies her Presidential Suite.
One lovely way to get acquainted is to take Sunday brunch in the King Charles Ballroom. Five floors up, its heavy pink and green draperies crowning the huge French windows, you'll find an almost embarrassingly gigantic buffet draped over three rooms. People dress up for what is always a festive occasion, magnified by The Don's immutable presence.
From the fifth-floor balcony, you get one of the most spectacular views anywhere in the Bay area. I hate to admit that the setting is almost more fabulous than the food, but alas, that's the case. Still, somebody has been paying attention in the kitchen because the huge spread has been carefully updated to more fully please a modern palate.
And the service was good, from the cold champagne that arrived almost as soon as we sat down, to the violinist that joked and played "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" for my effervescent young companion.
From a culinary standpoint, it was a respectable meal, though it seems I am perpetually disappointed in local croissants and crepes, which are not the light, delectable and fresh treats I always hope for. Still, among the dozens of offerings, I enjoyed a perfect piece of lamb, a good tabouli salad, a splendid assortment of fresh fruit and an excellent hot pasta dish custom-made to my order.
Then there were, oh, a dozen or so hot entrees in warming pans, many of which change from week to week, depending upon the creative impulses of the chef: roasted lamb, ham and beef, various incarnations of egg dishes like eggs Benedict and omelets, and all manner of cheeses, rolls and bagels, muffins, waffles and blintzes.
And that's before you get to the dessert buffet, set around a lavish fountain in the foyer to the King Charles Room. There we sampled petit fours, cheesecake, flan, cakes and pies, cookies, sorbet, ice cream with a half-dozen toppings and bananas Foster.
(You might want to fast a couple of days before you go.)
It's a great way to celebrate the holidays with friends or family, as well as a bow to tradition and a leisurely respite from the ordinary.
Or, explore The Don's two full-service restaurants: The Maritana Grille, a high-end seafood restaurant, and The Sea Porch Cafe, more modest and casual, with a pretty deck overlooking the gulf. They both will be open on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day, but do make early reservations, as The Don fills up quickly.
And remember, Sunday brunch only takes place on Sundays. It is free to those 4 and younger, $16.95 for ages 4-12 and $31.95 for adults.
For those of you who would rather guzzle beer crosslegged before the TV set than deck out and head to the Don, here are a couple of takeout suggestions for your dining pleasure. This way, you can be a bum but feast like a gentleman. Is this a great country, or what?
Those of you who live in Tampa are lucky to be able to order a full turkey dinner from Wright's Gourmet House, family-owned and operated for nearly 40 years. The food isn't teetering on the culinary cutting edge, but it's good, fresh and expertly prepared. For a party of six, order a 12-pound whole turkey ($39.95), dressing ($6.95), an order of sweet potato pone ($6.95), green beans ($5.95), cranberry relish ($4.95) and homemade gravy ($3.95). For dessert, order pumpkin pie ($19.95) or chocolate cake ($24.95) — without a doubt the best chocolate cake I've had anywhere in the Bay area. In fact, I challenge anyone to find one better.
If you want to cook Thanksgiving and do takeout the day after, try another family-owned and operated institution: Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish Inc., in St. Pete. For $50 or so, you can carry out a fine meal for four to six people of smoked mullet, coleslaw, potato salad, and an excellent fish spread to put on crackers or fresh bread.
But do order ahead, as owner and partner Michael Lathrop confides: "It is absolutely bonkers the last 10 days of the year. Sometimes, we have people 20-25 deep at the takeout counter."
Turkey Time. If you're on a tight budget, try a simple recipe for six that produces a moist, marinated turkey at home. The day before Thanksgiving, buy a package of Reynolds Oven bags, turkey-size, and a 12-pound fresh turkey. Rinse the turkey in cold water, remove its neck and giblets, and put it in the oven bag. With a sharp knife, remove the colored outside peel of two oranges and put the peels in the bag; squeeze the oranges, and add the juice, along with 1 cup chicken broth, 1/2 cup brown sugar, 1/2 cup rum and 1/4 cup Grand Marnier orange-flavored liqueur. Tie it tightly shut (make sure and use Reynolds' special ties to prevent incinerating your house) and store overnight in the refrigerator.
Turn the whole bag over every couple of hours so the marinade can penetrate every inch of meat. The next day, put the bird, still in its bag, in the oven to bake, using Reynolds' directions for cooking time. When it's done, use a knife to remove the bag, and put the turkey on a platter. Garnish with fresh orange quarters and hibiscus flowers, and enjoy.
If you get stuck, call the Butterball Turkey Talk Line at 800-323-4848 (celebrating its 20th year) Nov. 1-24, and all day Thanksgiving Day, or consult the Internet site at www.butterball.com.
Bon appetit!
This article appears in Nov 8-14, 2001.