Mad Hatter Afternoon Tea's sweets are a sight to behold. Credit: Jon Palmer Claridge

Editor's note: CL food critic Jon Palmer Claridge is in Vancouver doing "research." This is part three of an ongoing series sharing his culinary adventures.

Afternoon tea is a guilty pleasure, and you no longer need to be part of the British aristocracy to indulge. While it may not be inexpensive, it's a memorable experience like a concert, sporting event or theme park visit. By comparison, a relative bargain.

I've reported on enchanting teas in England on a few occasions, but none quite so clever (and delicious) as the Alice's Adventures in Wonderland-themed Mad Hatter Afternoon Tea at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver. Plus, guests are encouraged to look toward Lewis Carroll for sartorial inspiration. On my visit, two millennial woman bounced happily into the topsy-turvy world decked out as variations of Alice herself.

The tea, china and scones with clotted cream and jam are textbook. The finger sandwiches wittily evoke Canadian heritage with "Through the Looking Glass" mini bagels of salt beef from Montreal. And the inspired "Down the Rabbit Hole," featuring smoked salmon with preserved lemon cream on chive crêpe pinwheels, is transporting enough to make the Queen of Hearts mellow.

When it's time to graduate to the top tier of the cake stand, the sweets are a sight to behold. Talk about fancy-schmancy. I can't decide if the "Time's Ticking" cassis macaron, topped with a white chocolate clock face complete with Roman numerals, or the chocolate cup filled with tiramisu sporting an edible butterfly is more impressive.

The book-lined environment is charmingly seductive with pounded tin ceilings, askew wall hangings and ornate mini chalkboards with Victorian pedestals. They proclaim "this watch is sadly two days slow" or "it's only a dream." Which is indeed apt for this wonderful dreamlike way to while away a lazy afternoon.

Jon Palmer Claridge—Tampa Bay's longest running, and perhaps last anonymous, food critic—has spent his life following two enduring passions, theatre and fine dining. He trained as a theatre professional...