It's time, Bay area restaurants, to start thinking about ways to raise your game in 2008. Let's face it, 2007 wasn't exactly a banner year for the independent restaurateur in our area, thanks to a tough economy and our love of the prefabricated chain-dining experience. Although new chains aplenty popped up on almost every street corner, only a few non-corporate joints made an impact.
But let's not dwell in the past. 2008 can be a new start, a chance to show what you've got, a chance to not only improve yourself but to elevate the dining scene all over the region. Here are a few suggestions to help you on your way:
- Don't underestimate your customers. I know that every time you see the lines outside a Bonefish or Sam Seltzer you start thinking about ways to coax those folks into your place, but lowering your cuisine to those standards is a fool's game. Instead, go for broke, make waves and introduce eaters to the types of cuisine that chefs like to eat. Borrow trends from outside the area, or create your own. You don't have to have seared tuna, a filet and creme brulee on every menu.
It may take a little customer education before the Bay area catches on, but at least you'll be separating your food from the rest of the pack and creating an identity that's all your own.
- Don't forget the details: staff. Finding capable staff is even tougher than devising a menu these days, but it's important. These people are the face of the restaurant and can ruin or save a diner's experience regardless of the food.
For years, the quality and professionalism of service staff in both casual and fine dining restaurants has been going downhill. How do you fight the slide? Picking people is important, but training is key. Set standards, quiz on the menu and provide both regular constructive criticism when things go wrong and unabashed praise when things go right. Treat them like professionals and they'll act like professionals.
- Don't forget the details: environment. I'm not talking about the cleanliness and design of public spaces, that should go without saying. Instead of fulfilling expectations, give diners more than they ever imagined. Tiny flourishes — like a plate of aromatics to go into after-dinner coffee or gooey cheese gougeres instead of tired bread and butter — set you apart and give people the impression that they are getting something for nothing. It doesn't take a lot of effort to be creative in these little ways, but it makes the meal more of an experience. People will talk.
- Don't ignore desserts. I can usually name the majority of the items on a dessert list before I see the menu. If your restaurant is the type of place that doesn't expect or manage to sell a lot of desserts, take a look at yourself and wonder why. Do you spend as much time and effort on the bread pudding/molten chocolate cake/creme brulee/key lime pie/flourless chocolate cake as you do on your appetizers? Maybe you need a pastry chef to help push this course to the next level.
Giving people an entire extra course at the end of the meal that's just as interesting and tasty as the rest of the menu will put more money in your pocket from coffee and alcohol sales than any appetizer selection.
- Strive for perfection. Like in football, there are players who go strong on every down and players who take plays off. Which are you?
Let's be honest here, most restaurants usually just settle on getting through the night. When was the last time that you actively tried to make every dish as good as it could possibly be? When was the last time that you had some independent people (I'm not talking friends and family) perform a little surreptitious quality control on your dining experience? Test yourself and your restaurant every day and be a constructive self-critic with everything you do, from dressing greens to searing a steak. And, for God's sake, taste your own food, every damn time.
Good luck. I look forward to eating the results.
This article appears in Dec 26, 2007 – Jan 1, 2008.
