Heights Public Market

910 N. Ola Ave., Tampa. 813-250-3725, armatureworks.com.

The Hall on Franklin

1701 N. Franklin St., Tampa. 813-405-4008, thehallonfranklin.com.

When I hear the words “food hall,” my pulse quickens. Visions of the sensual onslaught that accompanies a trip to London’s Harrods or Fauchon in Paris fill my brain. Recently, there have been much-publicized variations on this theme in the forms of Mario Batalli’s Eataly and Le District in NYC. And the west coast has the oft-touted Pike Place Market in Seattle and Vancouver’s Granville Island Public Market. 

But Tampa Bay is a smaller metropolitan area, with fewer luxury buyers. The closest thing we had was Mazzaro’s until Michael Mina brought Locale Market to downtown St. Pete. I was excited — but nervous — to see if there was enough interest for Locale to thrive. After a few years and smart tweaks, they’ve finally found the sweet spot for both the gourmet market and FarmTable Cucina.

So as I head to Tampa Heights to explore The Hall on Franklin and Heights Public Market, I have no idea what to expect. You can only tell so much from websites; you’ve got to walk the spaces, breathe in the smells, and note the sights and sounds that bring a place to life. The good news is that both “food halls” deliver welcome additions to the Bay area food scene. But they’re on a modest scale, and it’s best to compare and contrast their offerings.

They’re close together. It’s a seven-minute stroll east on west Seventh Avenue from Ola Avenue to Franklin Street. Turn right — and past a giant mural of Lady Gaga, with a flowing blond mane and bright red lips — and you'll find The Hall. Just follow the yellow brick row. You enter through doors in the middle of huge roll-up walls, which blur the line between inside and out. The Hall is essentially an upscale, designer food court with table service, bringing seven diverse “taste architects” together under one roof. The menus focus on casual comfort foods from fish camp to poke to grilled cheese variations.

On the other side of Tampa Street, HPM has the feel of an indoor food truck roundup, where it’s circled the best wagons. This place is for rustic grab-and-go wandering. Dishes are served on small metal trays, and there are busing stations spread out around the space. The Hall, by contrast, delivers grub to you — but in casual, no-frills to-go containers. Both spaces have style and a distinct identity: HPM is deliberately industrial, while The Hall is polished.

The Hall features four bars, high tops, tables and tufted sofas. Above, there are glistening contemporary chandeliers resembling giant crystal life preservers. Below are smart parquet floors. Plus, there’s a huge projection screen measured in yards instead of inches. You’re greeted as you enter and given a multipage clipboard menu from which to order food and drink. Looking past the entry podium, a stylish white circular bench is flanked by tufted dark leather sofas.

Both concepts are built around notable Tampa Bay successes. Cocktail wizard Ro Patel’s Collection joins Asian fusion from Kevin and Sing Hurt of Anise Global Gastrobar at The Hall. HPM has wrangled the sommelier-driven Cru Cellars wine bar and kitchen as well as Ava’s wood-fired pizza.

HPM’s 22,000-square-foot open floor plan is dominated by huge skylights, giant eight-blade ceiling fans, and lots of communal seating — including too many members to list (please visit their website above). One delightful feature is a hand-washing station with exposed, horizontal copper pipe and foot pedals that rains down into an enormous white porcelain trough. It’s bisected by a wooden slat rack holding a liquid soap pump and towels in a wire basket. HPM also includes the interactive Show + Tell workshop, which hosts cooking classes, wine tastings and pop-up dinners.

The table of sweets from Inside the Box at HPM will make you drool — and there’s a tiered cake stand that is gluten-dairy-soy-nut-wheat-egg-free and local. It’s fun to stroll and salivate. There are sooo many options. I try spicy tuna nigiri at Zukku (which comes as a roll! — go figure), but the ample, fresh selection's flavors pop.

Butcher and Barbeque (BnB) has grass-fed beef wrapped and ready for purchase. But I can’t resist the smoked pulled pork sandwich with signature sauce and slaw. The meat stands out; the bun, sauce and slaw are fairly standard yet enjoyable. Surf and Turf’s chilled lobster roll has lightly dressed chunks of fresh lobster as expected, but the split-top roll is huge and perfectly toasted. The fries could use more seasoning and crispness. Our taste highlight is Empamamas. An order is two, so I get the award-winning Tampa Girl and an Empadaddy. Although the empanadas take a few minutes, they’re worth the wait. What’s not to love about piping-hot, crisp golden pockets filled with meat, cheese and special sauces?

At The Hall, North Star Eatery tempts me with the signature stinky bunz, but I surrender to the pork bánh mì loaded with five-spice barbecued pork with contrasting texture and acidity from pickled vegetables. Add a few wafer-thin jalapeño slices, a bit of cilantro and a smear of mayo and you’ve got a delicious treat. The surprise, however, comes from the accompanying house popcorn. The kettle corn tastes of toasted seaweed and sesame seeds — what a shock if you’re used to Cracker Jack. I finish off my day with Bake’n Babes owner Julie Curry’s scrumptious mini individual key lime pie. It’s textbook tart with a graham cracker base and a pretty lime wedge garnish. Yum-my.

Wherever you reside, a journey to the “food halls” of this Tampa neighborhood is definitely worth a visit.

CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.

Dining areas are scattered throughout The Hall on Franklin, which offers table service. Credit: Chip Weiner
There are high tops, tables and tufted sofas all over, alongside four bars โ€” among them the cocktail-slinging Collection. Credit: Chip Weiner
The Hall is essentially an upscale, designer food court with menus focused on casual comfort foods. Credit: Chip Weiner
It’s brought seven diverse “taste architects” together, including Bake’n Babes. Credit: Chip Weiner
The bakery’s vegan Sleazy Brownie. Credit: Chip Weiner
The scrumptious mini individual key lime pie is textbook tart. Credit: Chip Weiner
Customers enjoy the open-air bar at Kรดfฤ“. Credit: Chip Weiner
“Elegant simplicity” drives the coffee hub that is Kรดfฤ“, led by master barista Ty Beddingfield. Credit: Chip Weiner
Gabriael Nevarez, 11, tries his hand at table shuffleboard during his and his mother’s first visit to The Hall. Credit: Chip Weiner
North Star Eatery presents Asian fusion from Kevin and Sing Hurt of downtown Tampa’s Anise Global Gastrobar. Credit: Chip Weiner
Their pork bรกnh mรฌ is loaded with five-spice barbecued pork with contrasting texture and acidity from pickled vegetables. Credit: Chip Weiner
The classic sandwich is a delicious treat, but its surprise comes from the accompanying house popcorn. Credit: Chip Weiner
Pokรฉ Rose is executive chef Jason Cline’s take on a poke shop. Credit: Chip Weiner
The colorful sesame-ginger tofu with yuzu-chili rice noodles โ€” plus mushrooms, snow peas, cabbage, avocado-cilantro sauce, pickled ginger and togarashi. Credit: Chip Weiner
The Hall’s entrance is in the middle of huge roll-up walls, which blur the line between inside and out. Credit: Chip Weiner
Also new in Tampa Heights is Heights Public Market at Armature Works. Credit: Chip Weiner
The “food halls” are close together, yes. But HPM has the feel of an indoor food truck roundup, where it’s circled the best wagons. Credit: Chip Weiner
BnB has a deli counter for those seeking sandwiches as well as assorted meats from the butcher case. Credit: Chip Weiner
On a recent visit, Empamamas was busy during lunchtime. Credit: Chip Weiner
The Tampa Girl and Cheeseburger in Paradise empanadas with rosemary Romano-Parmesan fries. Credit: Chip Weiner
Customers use the hand-washing station with food peddles. Credit: Chip Weiner
There’s a self-serve nature to HPM, which is a different experience than The Hall. Credit: Chip Weiner
The building’s design is all red brick and industrial, and Big Ass Fans (no, seriously, that’s what they’re called) help cool the large space.
The open floor plan is also dominated by huge skylights and lots of communal seating. Credit: Chip Weiner
Inside the Box’s assortment of specialty grocery goodies. Credit: Chip Weiner
There’s even a table of freshly baked sweets. Credit: Chip Weiner
Outside, HPM’s lawn showcases an activity area where the weather โ€” and the neighboring Hillsborough River โ€” can be enjoyed. Credit: Chip Weiner
Not to mention games like jumbo chess and checkerboards. Credit: Chip Weiner
Old beams, once ravaged by termites, have been reclaimed and incorporated into HPM. Credit: Chip Weiner
Surf and Turf’s chilled lobster roll with fries. Credit: Chip Weiner
Zukku specializes in customized sushi creations. Credit: Chip Weiner
The stall’s Atlantic sushi burrito gets wrapped in seaweed and rice. Credit: Chip Weiner
The Atlantic is a combination of salmon, shrimp tempura, salmon bacon, masago, scallions and other veggies with spicy mayo. Credit: Chip Weiner
The design of Fine & Dandy, the cocktail bar, is representative of the space’s industrial look. Credit: Chip Weiner
Located in the center of Armature Works, the open-air courtyard draws a good lunch crowd. Credit: Chip Weiner